I purchased a RETRO.care MAXduino kit to build up for used with my ZX Nuvo 128 to use with .txz files. I found it was well packaged and the provided instructions were good. It is a quick and easy build. The kit came with all the required parts to do the assembly. I found a case on Printables to fit it. I printed up the case in white, but did a blue print in place inlay on the buttons. This case was a bit bland, so after building and testing, I made a few minor changes to the case and reprinted it.
It was a quick and easy build. Put the capacitors in the right place as there are 2 values, put the LED in in the correct direction. That is about it. The microcontroller ic was already programmed with the latest firmware. I guess I started putting it together before taking the pictures.
Everything is nicely labeled on the pcb design.
It didn’t take much time at all to assemble with so few parts. To get the pcb in the 3d printed case, I had to shorten the Reset button a bit. It seems someone managed to wedge the button in, I guess by putting the button stem through the hole and flexing the other side of the case out enough to get the audio jacks to fit in. I preferred to shorten the reset button, as I don’t want it to stick out too far and accidentally press it anyways. It is basically flush with the outside of the case, but easy enough to press when I want to.
After that it was down to plugging in the remaining parts and putting it into the case.
I tested it out and it worked great. I was able to load .tap and .tzx files without any issues on my Nuvo 128.
The case was a bit boring. I decided to make it a bit more colorful and fit the style of my Nuvo 128 a bit more.
To make the print in place inlays. I created an inlay model for each of the 4 colors in Tinkercad, plus the primary case model with the hollows in it. I make a skirt like ring around each set of models that I export with every part. I choose my first color to print, then once it is finished, I set the printer to maintain the bed temp, and swap and purge the filament for the next color. I have it print with zhop on, and the inlays are either 1 or 2 layers in height. I remove any skirt, and purge line, then print the next color model. Then repeat that process for each color. Finally I print the main model over top. You can see the Green line was kicked loose a bit, but it was good enough that it wasn’t worth starting over.
I made two other minor changes to the case. I created an angled fill in around the USB Port to close the hole up a bit. I also found that the back plate set deeper into the back of the case than I liked, so I shortened the lip a bit so that the back was more flush. It was minor, but I like it better that way.
This device is similar to a Tapduino for the Commodore 64, but is not compatible with it. I purchased it for use with the ZX Nuvo 128 for .tzx files, as it can already use .tap files. I can use it with my Timex Sinclair 1000 though. I don’t know if I will get any of the other compatible computers in the future, but I don’t currently have plans to.
I like the old 8bit computers. Being in the US, the ZX Spectrums are not really around here. I while wouldn’t be against getting an original Spectrum 128, I like building things. They also make reproduction cases based on the original 16/48k Spectrum case. I found the DonSuperfo’s reproduction Spectrum board designs. He made a 48k reproduction as well as he has several designs for 128k Spectrums. I found the ZX Nuvo 128 Rev 4A design of his. This version is his 128k based design with a DivMMC built in, and it fits in the 48k Case.
The Spectrum 128 portion is mostly through hole components. The DivMMC portion has a CPLD. There are a few surface mount parts otherwise, and I didn’t have any trouble with anything except the CPLD. The CPLD is very fine pitch, and was not designed for manual soldering with a soldering iron. My smallest iron tip still touches a couple pins at a time, note the smallest tip wasn’t the best choice. While I got it in the end, I do not intend to be soldering any more of those CPLDs with an iron in the future if it can be avoided. Due to that I am very glad I didn’t attempt the Rev 5a with a second even larger CPLD on it.
I used Don’s documentation on Github. To get the parts, I started by ordering a HARLEQUIN 128K REV 2D kit from ByteDelight. It is a starting point for the build. I started there to get the bulk of the parts from it, there are a few parts that were not needed. Since I am in the US, I ordered the kit from ByteDelight’s Ebay listing, which was the cheaper way to go due to shipping etc. If I ordered from his website, I would have likely purchased the “Parts Only Set (NO PCB)” option.
I would have went with the Rev 2d kit overall, except it doesn’t support a couple things, and I wanted the built in DivMMC. ByteDelight’s kit is great with the instructions that it comes with, but they are only available with the kit, and I could not get the BOM for the 2d at the time. Don has since posted the 2d BOM on the Superfo Harlequin 128 Facebook page files section.
I ordered my Nuvo 128 Rev 4a PCB from DonSuperfo by way of contacting him through the Facebook group. It can alternately be ordered from PCBWay’s Projects section. I didn’t need 5 of them, and I didn’t want to try to sell the spare PCBs somehow. Unfortunately for me the CPLD wasn’t included, which would have made the build so much easier. I think he does sell them with the CPLD, I just didn’t know to ask. The CPLD was $16.00 from Digikey, but it was quite difficult to install. It also took a bit of work to program, as I had no Jtag programmer around.
Since I couldn’t get the Harlequin 128 Rev 2d BOM at the time, I had to wait for the 2d Kit to arrive. Once I had the kit, I took the instructions from it which have the parts listing and the Nuvo 128 4a BOM from Github to find what parts I would still need.
Then I placed an order with Digikey to get the remaining parts, well mostly. I had to order the one obsolete ram chip from Ebay. I also had the various additional diodes and capacitors I needed in my inventory as well as a couple of the 74hc series ics. Below is a list of the parts I purchased, but a couple parts are missing, I will have to find the copy of the BOM I had edited to find the last few items to add to the list below.
1) UMC UM61512AK-15 a single one is needed as well, that is an out of production part. I ordered it from Ebay.
27) additional 1N4148 diodes are required.
Various capacitors are required that were not in the 2d kit. Some that were in the 2d kit had to be swapped due to available space.
I believe a couple parts are missing from the above list due to me having them in my inventory already. I will have to review the full BOMs. There were a couple IC Sockets that were required, and for some sockets I decided it was best to use machine pin header strips rather than cutting up regular sockets.
That is the parts to build up the Computer, minus the case and keyboard, which I sourced otherwise.
Building the Nuvo 128 4a:
I started with all the small low stuff. The AD724 NTSC/PAL Encoder was first. It came presoldered to the Harliquin 128 2D PCB, so I had to desolder it from there. I used my hotair gun for that. I then used my soldering iron to solder it onto the Nuvo PCB. I had thought of leaving it on the board and buying the AD724 from Digikey, but it was $26 just for one. Next the Diodes and Resistors. I think installed the Transistors and Resistor Arrays. I did be sure to not build up parts around the CPLD though. I could have done the CPLD first, but I wasn’t up to it yet. I wanted to get in some soldering practice and work up to that.
On the board J9 is to switch between “Composite Sync” for RGB mode and “Composite Video” on the 9 Pin MiniDin. It is made with the pins shorted for “RGB” mode, making it so you can’t switch it. So I cut the trace on the bottom of the PCB. ”Composite Video” can be used as the Sync signal for RGB video depending on your display/upscaler. I was having issues with using the RGB “Sync only” signal with RGB, and I wanted to be able to use plain Composite Video as well, so I switched it to Composite Video. It my have been an issue with my upscaler’s connection at the time.
Next I put on the CPLD and after that the MicroSD Card Slot. Notice the missing Diodes by the MicroSD Card Slot, they were left off to provide room to solder on the Micro SD Card Slot. I then went back and finished the Diodes. The MicroSD Card Slot was easy to install, but that CPLD wasn’t. Even though the CPLD looks good in this picture, it did not work properly. I tested all the pins I could and used my microscope to view it, I couldn’t find any faults. I was able to program it with the JTAG J17 header there just below it, but it wouldn’t initialize once the Nuvo 128 was built. In the end, I had to desolder it (using hot air). I then cleaned up the pads and CPLD and reinstalled it, partially soldering with my soldering iron and partially with hotair. It then worked properly.
That is a MicroSD Card Slot. The CPLD is tiny and has a lot of pins. The header below it is standard 2.54mm pin spacing.
Nearly ready to install the ICs.
Note: the Keyboard Connectors are 1 sided and must be installed turned the correct direction (which is different for each).
Above about all that was left were the switches, and the 3 directly soldered on ICs.
Programming the CPLD:
I didn’t have a JTAG programmer. With some direction from people on Don’s Facebook Group page, I looked around and found how to setup a Raspberry Pi 3b as a JTAG Programmer. The guide was old, and the one required part for it to work is no longer part of the default pi os, I had to find an old clone of the Github repo to get it to install properly. After that I found they had an “updated” guide that was to work, but I couldn’t even get that to install properly. So at this point I programmed the CPLD. Directions I used: with the work around of finding the other repo: https://linuxjedi.co.uk/2020/12/01/programming-xilinx-jtag-from-a-raspberry-pi/ The “newer” directions, which are also linked in the above that I couldn’t get working at the time. https://linuxjedi.co.uk/2021/11/25/revisiting-xilinx-jtag-programming-from-a-raspberry-pi/
See the Programming Warning below..
Warning: As seen in the picture below I programed the CPLD “before” putting on any of the other ICs (except the video encoder). This worked fine.. But when I found the CPLD wasn’t working properly, I tried to program it again after installing all the ICs, and nearly fried the Pi. It seems it was trying to power the Nuvo 128 5V components by the 3.3V VCC pin on the JTAG programmer. I expected the VCC pin on the JTAG Header was going to be the 3.3V which only goes to the CPLD, as that is what we are programming with the header. It appears that the regulator doesn’t prevent reverse voltage back feeding from the “Output” back through it and out the “Input” pin, and nothing in the design otherwise is setup to prevent it. It melted the casing on my dupont connectors and melted the VCC and Ground pins loose in a matter of seconds. As I was watching the Pi’s Video output it listed a Low Power warning, which warned me of what was going on. I tried to pull the jtag header, and the VCC and Ground wires came right out of the dupont crimps. Thankfully it didn’t do any damage beyond the connectors. To verify the programming, I then reconnected the JTAG header, but “Except” the VCC pin. I powered the Nuvo 128 by it’s main power jack, which powered up the CPLD. Then the JTAG Pi programmer was able to read the CPLD and program it, although it was already programmed properly. That did verify it was likely working and that it was soldered on as well as before at least.
Finishing Up the PCB:
Once the CPLD was programmed, I soldered on the 3 ICs and installed the other ICs in the sockets.
I missed installing the top IC before testing the board, it was not critical though. It is for the Joystick port.
The buttons were not installed yet, and I was waiting on the 5 position dip switch. I rigged up a minimum Composite Video connection for testing. With the dip switch not installed, Don’s ROM defaults to the Test ROM and the DivMMC disabled.
Composite Bodged in
Further testing revealed that the DivMMC was not working. That took me a good while to sort. I examined the soldering, checked for shorts and found pinouts for the Rom and CPLD. I traced the pins for the DivMMC ROM, Ram, and CPLD unable to find an issue. The CPLD pins are so small that it was difficult to verify I was on the right pin though even with test leads with very sharp tips.
I eventually decided to remove the CPLD and try putting it on again. I removed the JTAG programming header, as it was in the way and was going to be melted with the Hot Air gun. I covered up the nearby parts and sockets with Kapton tape to help prevent melting them. After I used hot air to desolder the CPLD, I cleaned up the pads and the CPLD pins and resoldered it on. I did then connect up the Pi3 to the JTAG header… see the warning above, I nearly fried it due to how VCC seems to be wired on the PCB. After verifying the CPLD was programmed ( I downloaded the programmed data to the pi, then programmed it again, and downloaded it again then compared the downloaded files.). I then put the properly prepared Micro SD Card (must be formatted properly, and must have the esxdos files of the matched version on it https://www.esxdos.org/index.html), and it worked!
Running a demo from the DivMMC
Preparing the Case:
Now that it was fully working with the DivMMC and the 5position Dip Switch had arrived, it was time to make the PCB fit into the 48k case. The opening where the 9 Pin Mini din ( old rf opening) needs enlarged along the bottom edge a bit. The opening needs made for the DB9 Kempston Joystick port. The opening for the Micro SD Card Slot needs made. The two openings for the buttons on the side need made. Since I wanted to use the Multi ROM, I wanted the Dip Switch to be accessible as well, so it needed an opening. I have since seen another of Don’s boards done by someone that put the Dip Switch on the bottom of the PCB, and cut out an opening in the bottom. That looked very neat, I don’t know where that would align on the Nuvo though, and it was well after I finished this build and had my opening in the side of the case for the DIP Switches.
For the Buttons, I kind of messed up and put the openings lower than they should have been, then I decided to “slot” them “upward” toward where they actually should have been. Since I had those odd openings I need to come up with a way to make them look a bit better. I made up a model for a button cap in Tinkercad. I printed it out of TPU. It fit on the button stems perfectly, and after the first test print, I made an adjustment and they worked great. They stick out just enough to press, they close the holes up well, and the TPU has just a tiny bit of give. The MicroSD Card Slot came out great. The DIP Switches are accessible even if it is not quite a perfect opening.
On to the Keyboard:
It was on to the Keyboard. I had found there is a replacement “Velesoft” anti-ghosting microswitch keyboard for the 48k case. I wanted that rather than the membrane keyboard. They are available from ZXRenew.co.uk who does the Reproduction cases such as I am using as the “Zelux”. AmericanRetroShop on Ebay in the US sells the Velesoft keyboard labeled as the MechBoardZX. Bytedelight also sells the keyboards, again not in in the US. I purchased my case and MechBoardZX from AmericanRetroShop due to shipping etc to the US. From what I see they look to be identical PCBs, all labeled up with the Velesoft design and just different branding otherwise on the silkscreen.
I did order the baseline keyboard without the LEDs. When I went to put it together though, I had decided to install the LEDs. If I decide I don’t want them on, I can always unplug the power to them. I had the LEDs and required resistors in my inventory so it was just a bit more time to install them. I couldn’t find what resistors came with the kit, I used 1k resistors I believe. In the end I think the Blue LEDs could have had a slightly higher value resistor, while the Green LEDs would have been better with a slightly lower value resistor. With the Nuvo 128 4a, it has a 5V Power header by the left Keyboard connector labeled as J15. I expect that header is intended for this type of use. I based my resistors on using 5V for the power, so there is no need for a Buck Converter Regulator as is generally included in the LED kits. I don’t see why they do that, and don’t setup for 5V power.. Yes the power losses are a little higher, and for an original ZX Spectrum, that may be an issue.
The PCB is very thin, and flexes. To keep it in place while I worked, I taped it to my silicone work mat. That way I could move it on my bench, but it wouldn’t move on its own.
Baseline KitConnected up, including 5V Power J15
Finished Setup:
Now that the Nuvo is finished and I built a new GBS Control with a RGB SCART Input on it, I can run the Nuvo 128 in RGB to any of my VGA, or HDMI Displays with audio. I don’t plan to primarily use it with my bench monitor. I can use this over on my desk that I keep setup for use with my old computers. I also built up a MAXduino kit, which I customized the case to be a nice match for the system. It is a quick and easy build from the Retro.care kit. It lets me load some games that I only have in the .tzx format which is not compatible with the DivMMC.
Some Notes.
C6 is a very tight fit, I had to find a capacitor small enough to fit there. It wedges in between U46 (the Regulator), J4 (the power jack), and SW1 (the 5 Position Dip Switch). It seems that could be adjusted with a bit of work, as the other versions don’t have it quite so tight. The value the capacitor is makes it a bit tougher to find that is small enough in diameter.
C28 and C29 need to be fairly small as well. In my case I had some rather large diameter ones that are very short, so they are raised off the board to clear the components around them. They can be found though, and thankfully I could use the ones I had due to them being so short.
U57 and U53 are a bit too close, they rub each other when installed. It just feels awkward.
As mentioned above the JTAG header J17 for programming the CPLD will backfeed power through the 3.3V regulator to the rest of the Nuvo board. This caused the JTAG programmer to try to power the whole ZX128 after the ICs were installed. I did find that something such as a 7805 Regulator will have that problem if power it applied to the “Output” while no power is on the “Input” side if there is a load on that “Input” side that can draw power. With the Nuvo 128 there is a lot of stuff on the 5V Input side of the 3.3V Regulator. I think a Diode just before the Regulator Input would prevent that, and as the DivMMC CPLD doesn’t draw much power it shouldn’t be a big deal if the 3.3V regulator can handle the slightly lower input voltage that would cause.
J12 for the ESP8266 module has the VCC Pin wired to the 5V Power rail. The ESP8266 Module that fits there is a 3.3V device. Some are “labeled” as “3.3V/5V” but I think they are “mislabeled” as none of them that I have been able to find have an onboard 3.3V regulator. The Nuvo128 has a 3.3V regulator for the CPLD, it could have been wired to J12. Provided it can handle the extra load. I have thought of modifying the board to get the 3.3V over there. I do have the module, the 3.3V powered one, but it doesn’t seem worth the trouble. It looks to be of limited use.
I don’t understand the choice to wire the 9Pin Minidin up with a Jumper J9 to switch Pin 4 between “Composite Sync” and “Composite Video” (which is defaulted to “Composite Sync” . The pinout is based on the Mega Drive 2 / Genesis 2 pinout. With the Mega Drive 2 / Genesis 2 9Pin Minidin port Pin 4 is “Composite Video” and Pin 5 is “Composite Sync”. On the Nuvo 128 Pin 5 is not connected to anything, and Pin 4 is by default “Sync” not “Video”. I expect there may be at least small quality improvement when using “Composite Sync” for “Sync” instead of “Composite Video” for “Sync”. It seems it must be small, as it looks that most of the RGB SCART Mega Drive 2 cables don’t use “Composite Sync”, they use “Composite Video”. I thought of wiring Composite Sync to Pin 5, but the output is great with using Composite Video for Sync so it doesn’t seem worthwhile. The little change of putting Composite Sync on Pin5 and removing J9 seems like a reasonable idea. I also find it a bit odd to use that type of cable, when the Resistors and Capacitors need to be removed from the cable to make it work properly with the Nuvo. Now if I use that cable by accident with at Genesis 2, it won’t do the upscaler, or display any good I am sure. It does make finding an “almost ready to use cable” for the Nuvo easier though.
Now that I have built a ZX Nuvo 128, I have a need for a good option for connecting up the RGB (RGBS) Video from it. The Composite Video output of it is pretty good on my 10″ LCD Monitor that I have on the work bench. The composite doesn’t look as good on some other monitors though.
With the GBS Control I built awhile back to use with the Commodore 128 RGBI to RGBS I had not included a SCART RGBS port or have an option for Audio passthrough. I just made it up to work with a standard VGA Cable. I also didn’t included the optional .96″ LCD Display and Encoder. This time I want to include those items. I am also going to place the SI5351 in a different location. I didn’t like putting it on the heatsink like I had last time. That heatsink does get warm with use, and having the board on it does reduce the heat dissipation. There will be a Switch to toggle in the Resistor between the Sync and Ground for 75 Ohm Sync Termination Enable/Disable. With SCART it will have audio passthrough. Due to that, I am also building it with a 3.5mm Stereo Audio Input/Output Jack. There is also a VGA to HDMI Adapter inside the case with audio wired to the 3.5mm and SCART ports. I can still use the VGA Output, but if I use the HDMI Output I will have audio passthrough from SCART (or the 3.5mm jack). If I use VGA as the Output and SCART for input, I can use the 3.5mm for Audio Output. If I use the HDMI as the Output and the “VGA” Input, I can use the 3.5mm jack for Audio Input so it will then output through the HDMI port.
I looked for a case that included this exact setup. I couldn’t find a full featured case that used the ESP8266 NodeMCU board form factor that Voltar had used, and I have a spare of. I found cases that use a smaller footprint ESP8266 Board with all the ports and features I wanted. They also often used a different SCART Connector than I have though.
I found a case that is similar to the last one (It is listed as a “remix” of it, but is nearly a full reconstruction I think) I had used previously. The remix also included a SCART port, which is the type of port that I have. It also had the option for the HDMI adapter, and being based on the other case I found there are 3 variants of HDMI Adapters that had mounts already made for them. The first HDMI Mount I printed I thought was the right one for my adapter, but I found out it wasn’t. There are 2 very similar looking HDMI Adapters, and mine was the “other one”, I found a mount that fit it. I tweaked it a bit to make it a slightly better fit. It turned out to have smaller screw holes, so I split it when installing it. I went back and resized the holes and reprinted it. It now fits quite well.
The case didn’t have an audio input (except by the SCART Connector), but that is an easy 1/4″ hole to add. This case did not have the LCD, or Encoder option. It also didn’t have spot for a switch that I wanted for the Sync resistor. It was simple to add the 3.5mm jack, and easy to add the Encoder, as they are simple holes. I added the spot for the switch in the little part above the VGA output port. The case is 3mm thick, which is a bit much though for the Encoder and 3.5mm jack, but it just fit. I printed the base case part to check it out and found a couple issues with it. The GBS board I have was a very tight fit, and when I test fit the board I almost couldn’t get it out. I ended up sanding the PCB down just a little, which makes it fit better. The SCART port is a bit of a problem to get in due to the large pin RGBS connector getting in the way. The Component RCA Jacks openings are slightly offset to the right.
After building this GBS Control up, I went back and relocated the front VGA and Component holes over to the left where they belong. I relocated the SCART port further toward the back of the case. I also thinned the front of the case by 0.25mm, due to the tight fit of my GBS board, this also gives the Encoder and 3.5mm Jack a tiny bit more usable screw thread to secure them. I printed a new version, the holes on the front line up properly now, the SCART still has a bit of an issue with the large RGBS header being in the way. It isn’t as bad now as the screw won’t run into that connector. For this build I had removed the RGBS port as it was in the way. I also redid the HDMI Port opening in the back, I didn’t like the tapered/feathered edge on it. I can’t move the SCART back any further than I already have as it will run into the back case screw.
Adding the .96″ LCD, it was bit more complex. I had to find some dimension specs, and I made up a model of it in Tinkercad. It gets a small bit oversized to allow room for the part to fit. My LCD is 1mm narrower than some other similar .96″ LCDs. I had to work out where everything else will be in the case. Where the ESP board will be blocking space, where the VGA to HDMI board will be, and also where the back of the Encoder will be. I printed a test print of the LCD holder part. The LCD fit, but that 1mm wider version didn’t. I reworked my 3d model of the LCD to be 1mm wider on the PCB, but it did not matter on this part, as there is no Rim up around the PCB with this part. I made another minor change to the case to accept the LCD where I wanted it. The LCD is optimally installed with four 2.5mm m2 screws. You can use 3mm m2 screws, be careful not to bottom them out and damage the case making them show through the top.
I didn’t realize it at the time, but when I went to put the VGA to HDMI adapter into the mounting bracket, it did not fit properly. There are apparently (at least) 2 VGA to HDMI adapters that look very similar externally, but the boards are a bit different. The one that was included with this case was not the correct one for mine. I did find one that was made for my adapter. I did make changes to it, I put in a relief cavity to let one of the ICs to rest in to prevent putting pressure on it with the clamping plate. That could cause failure over time. I also put some “slots” in the bottom of it looking similar to the one that did come with this case, I then found the screw holes were smaller, so I split the part when putting in the screws. I revised that and reprinted it with the larger screw holes. I swapped it out and the screws didn’t split it out this time.
The case is cool looking, and there is a good attention to how to make it work. It feels sturdy, mostly due to being thicker than the case I used last time. It is thicker than most cases I make myself, but for what it is, I figure it is worth the extra filament. I don’t like seeing into the case internals through the VGA ports, I may make little thin plastic sheets that close those gaps. I had to order the proper length screws to put the case together, as I didn’t have any that long. The model designer did specify the proper screw type and length.
This second GBS Control is functionally about the same, it has more connector options and HDMI Output internally. The VGA output also still works, I left it on the board and used the output header beside it to get the RGBHV into the VGA to HDMI.
The 3.5mm audio jack can either be used for input or output. If I am using SCART as the input, that will be inputting audio. If I want to use SCART with a VGA monitor, I can then use the 3.5mm audio jack as the audio output to speakers. If I am using RGBS/RGBHV VGA port for input (or component) and want to use HDMI with Audio for the output, then I can input the audio into the 3.5mm audio jack.
Overall, I had to pull pinouts for the SCART, and find the Pinout for the RGBS header that the included pigtail wire was for. I had to check the pinout of the 3.5mm jack I purchased. I also had to trace out the VGA/RGBHV pinout on the GBS Board, to verify it as it is labeled properly. For the VGA to HDMI adapter, I had to desolder the 3.5mm jack usb port, and the VGA port. I lost the HSync (or VSync) pad in desoldering the vga connector from the VGA to HDMI adapter. I was able to trace that down to a pad on the other side of the board. I had to trace out the pinout of the 3.5mm Jack on the board as well, and found I lost one of the Right audio pads too. There are 2 Right audio pads and 2 Left Audio pads so that worked fine as well. The board seems a bit delicate, but removing those connectors can be hard on any board. There is another type of VGA to HDMI board, the one used on the Super Gameboy Console project, there is a bracket for it out there as well, it has a standard through hole VGA input and audio jack. After building this second GBSControl, I went back and rebuilt the first one adding the SCART, HDMI etc. For that one I used the other HDMI Adapter. It was easier to remove the VGA and through hole Audio jack, but the USB Power had to be removed, and that was difficult to do without ripping off the pads (I lost one of the ground pads, but there are plenty of ground pads).
The LCD didn’t work when I connected it up, I flipped SDA and SCL and the LCD worked. I wired the Encoder as shown in the diagram on the GBS Control site, with the recommended capacitors, but it doesn’t work very well. For the rebuild of the other GBS Control, I didn’t include the Capacitors on the Encoder, it seems to work better. I was thinking of putting on some 100nF capacitors instead, but as it worked better without any capacitors, I didn’t bother with them.
To prep the GBS board, I removed the large pin RGBS header, as it was in the way of the SCART and not needed. I removed the RGB adjustment pots. I removed the headers over where the ESP gets wired in. I also removed the buttons, as I was unsure if they would get in the way of the Encoder (they would not have). The one capacitor was damaged (dented), so I also removed it and swapped it with a spare.
Once all the parts and boards were prepped, I tested the GBS before modding it. It posts a splash image when in default mode. That worked.
Then I added the 4 surface mount capacitors. I added the wiring for the ESP board. I again used two angled pin headers for the Ground pins to give a good secure connection to the GBS board.
The LCD was easy enough with just 4 wires with a header. For the Encoder, I wired it up with the suggested capacitors. The Encoder didn’t work very well in testing, below I also show that I added the new connectors etc to my original GBS Control, with that board I didn’t put on the Capacitors with the Encoder, and that is working better for me. I will probably remove the capacitors from the Encoder on this unit the next time I open it up.
For the HDMI Adapter I desoldered the VGA the Audio jack and USB Power port. I built up the HDMI adapter wiring. I didn’t have a large enough connector for the VGA output header, so I made up 2 smaller ones, the first for the RGB and Ground, then a smaller 2 pin one for H Sync and V Sync that gets plugged in to the right of the larger one. The board is labeled with R G B and H V on the header, which is correct, the other unlabeled pins are Ground, or mostly are ground on that header. I used the provided pigtail for the power header and soldered that to where the usb power port was for the HDMI adapter to power it.
ESP Board PreppedClock board with Kapton and foam double sided tape.This didn’t work very well with those capacitors, I am suggesting not using the capacitors on the Encoder.
Below I have the baseline GBS Control. This has the ESP board installed, the Encoder, the 4 pin header connector for the LCD screen. The 4 added surface mount capacitors. The RGB potentiometers are removed, they do have the jumpers installed from the bottom of the board, don’t forget them. The jumpers on the RGB potentiometer locations were put on the bottom of the board, as I am placing the Clock Generator board on top where they used to be. When I had this this far along, I tested it to make sure it was still working.
Next I installed Clock board. This new placement is recommended currently on the GBS Control wiki, and the board just fits in there. The first board shown is an Adafruit branded board appears slightly larger, but I don’t have dimension of it. The person doing the alternate placement used the same type of board I am using had cut the board down smaller, more in one dimension than the other. I expect the reason for chopping it in the narrower dimension is to get more clearance to the TrueView IC pins and heatsink, as it is quite close. I had missed this was to shift it to align with one of the Ground Through holes in the board from the removed Potentiometers. The smaller generic board I used does otherwise fit perfectly without any modification if you use a ground wire. You may be able to get alignment to that ground point though by removing the RGBS connector, but I missed the note about the Ground pin while doing the build. I placed 2 layers of Kapton Tape to the bottom once the wires were soldered on. I then put foam double sided tape to hold it in place. Then I put in the short wires to the ic pin on the corner. I wired into the capacitor the same as before for power, except I put power to the power and ground pins. I am not sure why they are telling you to add the 3.3v to the one capacitor, the board supposedly runs as 3v with a LDO Regulator that can be powered by 3.3v. So I felt it best to power it the way it was designed to be powered.
The last parts all plug in. The HDMI Adapter took some tracing out the pinout to know where to put the wires. I used a bit of ribbon cable with connectors that I crimped on. I do not do them very often, so it took me a bit to figure out how to crimp this type of connector properly. I used the power pigtail to power it. I used the RGB pigtail to wire to the SCART Connector. The switch and resistor for the Sync pin is wired to the Sync pin and Ground on the SCART Connector. I did wire together both halfs of the switch, it just doubles up the connection path incase one half starts making poor connection with use. It is not easy to see, but the SCART Connector has all the Ground pins wired together. Then the 3.5mm audio jack is wired into the SCART. With the audio also running over to the HDMI Adapter from the SCART Connector. The HDMI Adapter ribbon cable has some Liquid Electrical Tape on it to tie it together. That was mostly as I had lost a pad for H or V Sync and had to run a little 30awg wire to the top of the board and solder it then to the proper wire in the ribbon.
The 12pin JST PH (2.0mm) connector by the VGA output is where the HDMI Adapter is connected to. The pin out is Red, Ground, Green, Ground, Blue, Ground, Hsync, Vsync, and 4 more pins that we won’t be using. As I didn’t have a 12pin JST PH connector, I used a 5pin connector wiring in R, G, B and 2 Ground pins. Then for Hsync, and Vsync I used a 2pin connector, which fit in nice beside the 5pin connector. You can add a spot of Hot Glue if you like to hold it. Alternately if you have an 8 pin, or longer plug you can do it all as one, and it will be more secure. I linked a couple suggested connectors and the tool below, not any affiliated links or anything. You could solder to the pins, or maybe get or salvage a cable from somewhere else. I used part of a salvaged ide cable, which a good size of wire for the crimp connectors. Otherwise I use 30awg solid core wrapping wire, and 24 awg silicone insulated stranded wire, along with various other bits of regular scrap wire from my stash. The wrapping wire is small and easy to use to solder to small pads or ic pins. The stranded silicone insulated wire is very flexible, easy to strip, and the insulation doesn’t melt, so I splurged on some the other year.
SCART Connector, 3.5mm Audio Jack for Input or Output depending on usage. Sync to 75Ohm Switch and HDMI Adapter assembly.
The wiring on the VGA to HDMI adapter may vary, as there are some variations in the connector. With the adapter above, Red, Green and Blue were on the top of the board with Hsync and Vsync on the bottom of the board. I checked them with a continuity mode on my multimeter to verify I had it all correct. There are of course numerous Ground pins on the VGA connector. For the Audio input to the HDMI Adapter, I just used my multimeter again to test the connectors on the removed 3.5mm jack, which I was unfamiliar with the footprint for. While the 3.5mm jack had the build in “switches”, both the switched and non switched pads were wired to the inputs. That was good, as I lost one of the audio input pads closest to the hdmi adapter.
The last bit is easy, just screw the LCD to the top cover. Then it is connected with the included pin header. Using some M2 x 2.5mm (3mm max) screws to install it. The Pinout is sometimes different for the LCDs, so always wire it based on the Silkscreen Labels on the LCD. The Silkscreen Labels though are on the “front” side of my LCD, once installed I can’t read them.. The Dupont 2.54mm connectors can be purchased as various lengths and used for breadboard wiring and such. You can buy the crimp tool for them. I purchased a SN-28B Ratcheting Crimper, which doesn’t work for the JST PH 2.00mm crimps.. so purchased the SN-01BM Ratchet Crimper I have both sets now. I am wanting to try the SN-01BM with the Dupont 2.54mm. The only difference in the Crimp tools is the Die Inserts, so you can just use one crimper and get different Dies for them if needed. There are other non ratcheting crimpers that are a bit cheaper, I tried one but didn’t have much success with it. Other people have said they are great, and I find that the case with such tools, using them incorrectly they smash the crimp, or cut the wires off.. Doing them correctly, they work great. Putting the crimp in from the wrong side, crushes the connector and usually cuts the wire, but putting them in the correct side it just works.
The complete internals. There is a good bit more inside this GBS Control build, The filament I used is Overature Matte White PLA. It is a little bit of an odd filament, not glossy and more opaque (but not fully with LEDs behind it). It gave the unit a unique look, and it feels sturdy. It also looks good with my White ZX Nuvo 128 in the ZX Spectrum 48k White reproduction case.
I closed it up and did some testing with RGB Video from my Nuvo 128 to HDMI on my bench monitor. It looks great and the audio sounds great, all considering the monitor it is connected to that is.
I had all the parts that I needed. I used another type of HDMI Adapter, and put it in the revised case.
Below are most of the new parts laid out. It is hard to make out, but the required resistor is wrapped between the sync and ground pins on the large rgb header partially blocked by the new 3.5mm jack. The HDMI Adapter wiring had connectors JST PH (2.0mm) connectors crimped on. I didn’t have connectors that were long enough, so I used a 5pin for the RGB and Ground, then a 2pin connector for the H-Sync and V-Sync pins again. The wiring on the VGA to HDMI adapter was a bit different as it is a traditional through hole vga port, but it was easier to map out as that is the standard vga port footprint. For the Audio, it was easy to check left and right on the 3.5mm jack, it had 2 pads for Left and 2 pads for the Right channel.
The SCART port is relocated further back on the case to help it better clear the large RGB Connector. If you look at the pictures, you may see in the White one above, the one SCART Screw would run into one of those RGBS pins if the connector was installed. The front of the case is .25mm thinner as the GBS board was wedged tight in the white case, which did make it nicer for the 3.5mm and encoder mounting with just that little bit more thread usable to screw in. The front input port openings on it are now properly lined up with the Component RCA Ports. The .25mm thinner front of the case gives the GBS board that little bit more space, but oddly the other GBS board seems to have more clearance. The Grey case is the revised one. The top didn’t print as nicely in the Grey.
Back, mostly the same.Component Openings AlignedSCART back for better internal Clearance.Tops are the same other than how well they each printed. I had the Z Height a bit too low on the Grey one, so the finish is not as good. The Grey would still show the lines more than the white due to the type of filament though.
With the large RGBS header on the board, it did get in the way of the one corner spacer. That I had to shave down a bit to get it to fit properly. I could have removed that header like I did on the white one above, but I didn’t want to go to that trouble. It was minor thing to file the spacer.
RGBS Header in the wayShaved SpacerShaved Spacer Installed
The SI5351 board was relocated. This was almost required, as there was very little clearance to the HDMI Adapter with the prior location glued to the top of the heatsink. I also prefer it as that heatsink does get warm with use.
Kapton and Foam TapeReinstalled
I did use one of the other style of HDMI Adapters in the Grey one. I had a couple of them. It is the type used in the Gameboy Console project, so I had two more of them laying around. After looking at it, it is not identical to the one I used in the Gameboy Console project, the regulator setup is different, some parts are not present. This adapter was easier for me to get the VGA and Audio ports off, but the the type of USB ports for power was more difficult than the other style. I prefer using this type of HDMI adapter, as it lines up to the hdmi better and feels more secure. I will also be more likely to reuse the connectors I pulled from it.
Alternate HDMI AdapterUpgrades completed.
I think this one looks a bit neater internally, I did get the wire lengths down just a bit, which helps it be less cluttered. It still has a lot of wiring in it though. You can see the buttons on the pcb don’t have any issues with the Encoder being above them. Sure they won’t be used, but there was no reason to remove them.
I am going to reprint the Grey top case at some point, plan to do it with a multicolor print to fill in the GBS C text flush to the top. I tested this one with the Nuvo 128 as well, testing both HDMI with Audio and VGA Output. It worked just as well as with the White unit except the Encoder seems to work better without the capacitors. This GBS Control will go back on the desk where I keep my Commodore 128 connected for use with the RGBI to RGBS adapter. I plan to use the new White one for the Nuvo 128 mostly if I use it somewhere other than that desk.
2x M3 x 10 mm (For SCART Connector) Alternately use longer screws with Nuts if you prefer.
Depending on which VGA to HDMI Adapter you use. Either 2x M3 x about 6mm for the smaller one, or 1x M3 x 6mm with nut for the larger boxy type Adapter (in the Grey unit)
After building the RAD REU for my Commodore 64/128 I found out that the Nuvie videos were made for PAL systems. My two Commodore 64s and 128 are NTSC models. I didn’t make the RAD REU to watch those, but since I wanted to see what they were like. I started to look around for a reasonably priced PAL C64. I came across this one listed as not working with a switch issue at least. It also doesn’t look great.
It arrived with a little paint on the lower left corner, some cut marks along the lower case and badge. Such as hobby knife or pocket knife. The cuts look intentional, but I don’t see a reason or pattern. The case overall looked reasonable. I opened it up to inspect the stuck switch and overall condition. It was rather dirty inside, the cartridge port guard was somewhat rusted. A little rust on the RF Module. It was dirty like it been stored in an attic or shed. I tested the jammed switch and got it to move to a position where it was switched on. Powering it up the system seemed to work fine. I did some testing but not a full diagnostic test.
I took the system apart to clean it and work on the power switch.
The C64c after repairing the power switch and cleaning the board up.
This is a Short Board. I find it interesting how much less complex it is than my other two Commodore 64s.
I do have some brand new power switches for the C64, but these switches can be taken apart and be fixed, at least sometimes. I removed the power switch and took it apart, the grease in it was gummy and sticky making it not operate properly. The switch didn’t show any significant wear internally. It did take a fair bit to get the gummed up grease out of it though. I added new silicone grease and reassembled it. This blue power switch doesn’t have a “nice click” to it like my other Commodores, but as far as I can tell, it is working properly. It now moves nicely, and makes very good connection across the switch pins. I have since seen someone comment in a video that the Blue switch doesn’t feel or sound the same as the other Red ones, so it seems this is just one of those other types.
This got the computer working fully, or appeared to. While I had the board out, I did clean it with IPA. I cleaned as much of the rust from the cartridge shield as I could. I did not reinstall the clip on cardboard RF Shield. The image above is the board after cleaning and fixing the power switch.
For the case I washed it with dish soap and warm water. For the white paint on the case, I used 91% ipa, which easily removed it. For the cuts into the case, they were shallow, but I could “feel” the edges when touching them. I decided to use a hard plastic stick, and “rub/burnish” the scratch down. That pushed the raised up sides of the scratch back down and made it so that I couldn’t feel it any longer. There were a number of them all mostly below the keyboard. This also made them less visible, although if you look closely you can see them. The case is in good condition overall beyond that, the clips are intact, it is not cracked or modified.
Those are the scratches after burnishing them.
The dirty keyboard.
I also disassembled the keyboard, just taking the keys and springs off with a keycap puller. The rest of the keyboard assembly was cleaned with Windex, a brush, and qtips and paper towels. The keyboard frame and pcb was not disassembled, I waited to test it before deciding if it needed opened. The keys were washed with warm water, dish soap and a toothbrush. There were some springs that were a bit rusty, those spring were wiped down and put into a small cup of vinegar for about 20 minutes. They were then rinsed with water, wiped down and dried. The next day after the keys were properly dry, I reassembled the keyboard. It was connected to the computer and tested and found to be working properly.
The video output on the C64c was good on Composite. There are some visible jailbars, but it is not awful. I had more of TheRetroChannel’s RF Replacement boards for the C64Shortboard (and C128) as I installed one on my Commodore 128. I also had all the parts to build one, so I decided I would swap out the RF Module. With doing something like that, I decided I would also recap the board.
The audio jack on the board was modified to sit lower to the pcb. The jack would have otherwise been centered at the same point as the SVideo port. With the audio jack lowered, I was able to keep the board a little bit more level than I would have been able to otherwise. There is no modification to the C64 mainboard or case for this mod. The L-H opening is not modified and neither is the RF opening. I kept the modulator, just incase I want to put it back someday. To get proper alignment, I test fit in the board and case. Once I get the alignment correct, I solder in one of the 4 mounting pins, then test fit it again. Then solder the next mounting pin and test fit again. Then finally I solder the remaining two mounting pins as well as the 8 pins for the signals to finish the installation. I then tested output of the Composite video, it looks pretty much the same as before. I then tested the Svideo output and audio output, which both worked properly. The Svideo is sharper as expected. Also the Chroma/Luma is still on the normal display port as well as Composite video. There is a jumper on the new board that does disable the color signal to the Composite, which is to clean up the Svideo output a little, but I keep it installed. There is also the Chroma Luma bypass option, which I did not do. The board supports doing Stereo Audio out to the audio jack if you have dual SIDs, which I don’t have. It also has a Hard Reset circuit on it, that you either install a button in place of the Audio Jack or use a button mounted somewhere else by the one jumper header on it. At this time, I do not have the Hard Reset connected, but I did populate that part of the board incase I decide to set that up at some point. I don’t like to modify cases, so I don’t have anywhere to put a switch at this time.
The video wasn’t bad on this C64c, and after the change, the Composite looks pretty much the same. With the Commodore 128 there was a significant video output improvement though. I wouldn’t have put the mod, except I had the spare boards. It may be a little better, and it does make it easy to connect to SVideo. I do have a single Commodore 64 to Svideo cable, but I have 4 computers now, so not having to have more custom made cables around is nice if I want more than one of them connected at a time.
When I recap a board, I test the new capacitors before installing them. I then test the replaced capacitors and compare them to the new test results. With this computer, I didn’t find any capacitors that were obviously going out. Sometimes I find a few that seem to be out of where they were expected. I work to use proper replacements from good manufactures and sources. I see no reason these capacitors should fail as long as I have use for the computer. The old capacitors are 33 years old now, they may not have held up at some point in the future. My hand isn’t as steady as it was, and I can’t see the part as well as in the past. I can do this work now, I don’t know about in another 10-20 years what it would be like. Maybe the computer won’t work in that time, maybe it will..
I keep forgetting to get good before pictures of projects. There wasn’t much to this, I would have liked to have some pictures of the switch internals. I have been doing similar switch tear downs for years, it isn’t complex, although it is good to carefully look at the parts and how they come apart. The recap was standard, this board did give me a hard time with the thick ground plane though. I don’t remember having quite as much trouble with the other two C64s or the C128 on the ground plane. The cleaning is standard, I used dish soap and warm water in the bathtub for the case top and bottom. For the keycaps I use a bucket of warm water with dish soap in it. If I am not washing something large like the case in a sink/tub I will often use Windex instead. For sticker residue I use WD40. I only use IPA to get marks off if nothing else has worked, I also tend to not use it on dark plastic. IPA can damage the finish of some plastics and can make visible marks on dark plastics sometimes. I use IPA to clean circuit boards and metal areas. I have also started to use 99% IPA instead of the 70% or even 91% IPA to clean flux. That has shown to leave less residue, and break down flux much easier.
The RAD REU Nuvies do work with this PAL C64c. Now to get Sam’s Journey? Which is one of the reasons I wanted a REU to start..
Someday I may try to retrobright the keyboard. The case itself is not very yellow, but the keys are.
I have wanted a REU for my Commodore 64 and 128, but they haven’t been reasonable to get an original. I also has not seen a reproduction option. Yes there are a few options, but nothing I was going to get into. I recently came across Frntc’s RAD Expansion Unit Project. I recently saw the Sidekick64 and had been wondering what it was, what advantage does it have to other similar products. It turns out in the US you can’t buy built versions of his projects (short of shipping and fees from Europe). If you are in Europe there are authorized resellers of the RAD Expansion Unit.
The RAD REU uses a Raspberry pi, either a Pi3A+/B+ or Pi Zero2 to emulate a REU / Ram Expansion Unit. It can work at various sizes up to 16Mb, it can also work as Georam. It can do REU Images, which I am not familiar with, and NUVIEs and says it can run PRG. I take it the PRG is normal PRG files. NUVIEs are 16mb movie files which I have not tried. My intention for this device is to use it as a REU to run some programs I couldn’t otherwise run on my Commodore 64 / 128. I am thinking of trying out Geos as well with it.
Frntc has released the Gerber files for getting PCBs produced. It is highly recommended to get the Gold Plated ENIG boards. While the HASL Solder coated fingers are very common, they are common because they are cheap, not because they are recommended. Most or even all of the aftermarket Cartridges I have are HASL, they generally work, but use of them makes the solder rub off into your cartridge slot and will cause problems over time. The boards I had produced awhile ago were also HASL. I hadn’t been having issues with them on my C64, but I don’t swap cartridges often. I did find my C128 was very unreliable using the cartridges, which may be due to another reason.
I had a spare Pi3 A+, I do also have a single Pi Zero2, but I felt it is more useful for some other projects. I ordered up Frntc’s board design for the pi3 model with the Gold Plate ENIG board finish.
The gold looks very nice. It is a much more consistent finish on the edge connecter. I can see how these boards are certainly an upgrade for edge connector boards. For boards without the edge connector I will keep using the HASL finish. It is generally a difference for example from $2 to $19 for a small batch of boards.
Frntc provides a file called ibom.html in the Gerber folder that is an interactive Bill of Materials. It lists the basic part and footprint data for it. I wish he had used more universal footprints, some of these surface mount footprints can be setup to accept either the wider ics or the narrower ICs giving more valid part options. It took me awhile looking at the parts on Digikey and Mouser to find the ICs with the proper footprint for the boards.
I found all the right parts eventually. I was going to order from Digikey, but they didn’t have one of the ICs in stock. I went with Mouser as they had everything in stock. The pricing was close between the two suppliers. I did mess up and miss ordering some of things I had sitting in a cart at Digikey that I wanted to put on my next order though.. The parts all came in and it turns out everything was correct. I will list the specific Parts I ordered here.
1 Mouser #:771-74LVC245AD-T Mfr. #:74LVC245AD,118 Bus Transceivers 74LVC245AD/SOT163/SO20
2 Mouser #:595-SN74LVC573ADWR Mfr. #:SN74LVC573ADWR Octal Trans D-Type Latch
Notes: The 10k Ohm resistors are 0805 parts not 603 an oddity in the part number I guess.. The Capacitors are all 0805 as well. One of the HTC30 ICs and it’s capacitor are not listed as required on the ibom. I found a picture of the board where that IC is outlined in the silkscreen as “optional”. I put them on, I wonder if it is for debugging or development? It was $0.45 in parts, so I didn’t see a reason to not install them.
I had an issue with the firmware. I figured it would be in the repository where it would download with it repository. That is how it has been for the few other projects that I have used. The code is in the repository if you download it, but not the compiled release. I am not very familiar with Github, maybe no one else will have an issue finding it without this little note. It turns out Releases are along the right hand side bar on Github. Since I had the issue finding it, I asked 8-bit Resurgence where the files were. So to get the compiled files, Click on “Releases” at the Github project page on the right hand bar, assuming they don’t change the location.
Test FitStickySticky
The soldering wasn’t too bad. I did try a new solder tip with the solder cavity in it for drag soldering. I found it was putting down to much solder and was difficult to remove a bridge with. I went back to my normal tip without the hollow in the bottom of it. I did use a paste flux, which I find is important for surface mount soldering, it helps clear and prevent bridges. I did find cleaning up the flux with 91% ipa wasn’t the easiest. It just didn’t do a great job and took a few passes. There was flux stuck inside the pi Header, you may be able to see it on the picture above still in the header. The next day I used contact cleaner on the header and ics. It flushed a lot of the flux out of the header, it also flushed a lot of flux out from under the ics that I didn’t know was still under there.
It works.
Now it needs a case. There is a case design linked with the project. I started printing it in a slightly translucent blue PLA. The label on it was printed on plain paper as a test with double sided tape on the back. Overall the case looked pretty good, it also fit well. I decided I wanted something that blended more with the Commodore 64.
I ordered in Polymaker Matte PLA 1.75mm Muted White Filament to see how that looked. It was recommended by the Macintosh Librarian as a good matching color for the early Macintosh. I figured it will not be a perfect color match, but it should be in a good color range to “fit in” better than the blue case.
I also had a small piece of Inkjet Vinyl. My old HP Inkjet printer is out of black ink, and the new color cartridge isn’t working well, probably due to how old it is even though I just installed it. It is also quite an old printer that Windows 10 doesn’t care to print to it properly. I had to tape the small piece to a piece of paper to put it through the printer. Which it did well with that. I’m debating buying fresh cartridges for it.
I like the new case a lot better. The label is much nicer too. I like the color, it is a light beige. It is not a “match” to the Commodore 64 Breadbin color, it is fairly close to the Commodore 128 or Commodore 64C. I can’t tell though, as my Commodore 128 is Yellow.. The Commodore 64 Breadbin I am using it in is lighter than the typical Breadbin because it has been Painted. The RAD REU is a bit lighter than the paint, but looks very nice with it. I did print the case at .28mm layer height, so printing at lower layer heights may make a little nicer looking case.
I have tried it with Nuvies as well, but the are almost exclusively PAL based, which won’t work on NTSC computers. I did then end up importing a PAL C64c, which is works well with and can play the PAL Nuvies.
Updated 8/13/23: I switched the U34 and used the J4 Bodge wire to A15 and have updated instructions and pictures below to match.
I have been wanting to put JiffyDOS on my Commodore 128. My 1541ii came with JiffyDOS, but none of my Commodore Computers have the JiffyDOS ROM to match. I recently purchased JiffyDOS from RETRO Innovations, I purchased the ROMs for my Commodore 128, as well as for one of my Commodore 64s and a 1541 ROM to use on my pi1541.
The Commodore 128 Flat model shipped setup with 16k ROMs, but it can be switched to use 32k ROMs by setting some jumpers. If you switch it to 32k ROMs, then there are only 2 ROMs required instead of 4. The ROMs that shipped in the Commodore 128 Flat model are also older versions than what is available. I wanted to update to the latest version of the Basic ROM, and the Kernal as well, so it is nice to only need two eproms instead of four.
Note: I originally used the 390393-01 ROM for U34 and put a jumper on J4. I had issues loading programs from Disk, while some programs would load properly numerous ones would not work. I don’t know if there were other issues or not. Mark from TheRetroChannel on Youtube did the 32k ROM mod on his 128 and reported having issues with closing J4, it turns out to be the same type of issue I thought I was having too. He reported that when using the regular DCR ROM and the J4 bodge wire as shown at the rift.dk post, that he didn’t have any problems. I went back and have switched to doing that as well. I haven’t come across any disk reading issues after following the rift.dk J4 bodge wire method. I would like to know why that seems to have been an issue, the 390393-01 ROM having a part number like that means it is made up or a legitimate release from Commodore for the 128. I am expecting it throws off some timing off somewhere.The result I ended up with the dupont cable looks neat enough, but it still is a “bodge”.
In this case I am going to switch to the 32k ROMs, and also install a Switchless ROM Switcher with JiffyDOS. So this is a combination of a few mods.
To change the Commodore 128 Flat from 16kB ROMs to 32kB ROMs we just have to install jumpers or bridge J3, a bodge wire to one of the J4 pads and a via nearby, and J6. I am going to put in Jumpers and pins to make it easy to switch back if needed.
To setup the 32K ROM Set. We pull U33 (16k) and U34 (16k) and install the 32k U34 to replace them. That new ROM is the basic.318022-02.bin (32kB).
The second ROM we pull the 16K U32 and U35. Since I am doing the JiffyDOS Switchable ROM, I am making a 64K ROM to replace the original U32.
For the Switched C128/C128DCR KERNAL ROM (64kB) we combine the files below in this order: basic.901226-01.bin (C64 Basic) kernal.901227-03.bin (C64 Kernal) kernal.318020-05.bin (C128 Kernal) basic.901226-01.bin (C64 Basic) JiffyDOS_C64_6.01.bin (C64 JiffyDOS Kernal) JiffyDOS_C128DCR_6.01.bin (C128 JiffyDOS Kernal)
There are different ways to combine the files. I just use the copy /b Binary combine from Command Prompt: (Note as one single line)
Then burn the combined ROM to a 64k Eprom such as the 27512. The Commodore 128 uses the 27256 Pinout in 32k ROM Mode (and 27128 in 16k ROM Mode), so they are drop in replacements.
To do the Switched ROM we keep Pin1 (A15) bent out, and not inserted in the Socket. If I was going to do a Kernal “Switch”, then I would wire a 4.7k (recommended value I found) Resistor from Pin1 (A15) to Pin28 (VCC). Then put a switch between Pin1 and Ground. I am going to use an Arduino Pro Mini, it will not need the Pullup Resistor. I expect you could do Kernal Switcher that does more than two modes by making a 128K ROM, but for the Commodore 128 I don’t know of other Kernals that I care to use. That would also be a 32PIN Eprom, so an adapter would also be required. If you did stick with the 16k ROMs, you could then alternately use 64k Eproms to setup a 4 way ROM Switcher.
I am basing the Arduino Pro Mini code on a modified version of Adrian Black’s C64 Kernal Switcher that was done by Mark Ormond. I am starting with Mark Ormond’s modified version of the code as the basis. He had it setup for swapping 4 ROM Sets for 16k ROMS, but I only need to trigger a single pin (A15 Pin 1) on my JiffyDOS 64k U32. It was setup to control 2 Eproms and rotate through more ROMs triggering several Address lines as he was using 16k ROMs.
The Arduino board will be triggering A15 on the 64k ROM triggering it to use either the upper or lower 32k portion. It will also be wired to the ResetLine, EXROMLine and RestoreKey, as well as Ground and 5V.
The PowerLED will also be moved to the Arduino board with a proper current limiting resistor (220 Ohm typically) this will Blink the LED to show the status changes. When the C128 turns on it will blink the LED in my case 1 or 2 times based on which ROM it is set to use.
Above is the starting point. We have the four 16k ROMs installed. The first part of this modification is to remove them and install the jumpers to switch the system over to 32k ROM mode. That is just adding the 3 jumpers to the board.
Modified Jumper Header
There was a bit of an issue with that, the pins are not the typical 2.54mm pin spacing (probably 2.0mm?), I slightly bent the bottom part of the jumper to get it inserted. I do know there is a smaller size jumper I have seen on other equipment, but I don’t have the pins or jumpers to put on them. After bending the pins a bit they did fit well. I then got out some spare jumpers and installed them. By using the jumpers I can easily switch to 16k ROMs again if I want.
Pin for J4 to A15. This on on the VIA below the Z80.“bodge to A15 and J4s Right Pin”
That is the end of enabling the use of the 32K ROMs. That is beyond putting in the new U32 and U34 which is a little different as I am doing the JiffyDOS switchless mod.
The next thing I had to do was put in the connections for the Switchless Kernal Switcher. It also handles doing a Hard Reset, well it is supposed to. I don’t know how it works with the Commodore 128 as I have only seen such mods on Commodore 64s. I wanted to make it removable, so I put in pins where I could, even to the point of putting pins on the side of two of the 74 logic ICs. That made it so I can detach the Pro Mini board and go back to normal ROMs, be it 32k or 16k ROMs. Also if the Pro Mini fails I can more easily switch it out. Be sure to get a 5V Pro Mini, not a 3.3V model.. The only wire directly soldered to the Pro Mini without a connector on the other end is for the Eprom, but it is socketed itself, so not a huge deal.
Reset – U63 Pin 2 (to Pro Mini Pin7)5V and Ground to Pro MiniLeft: EXROM (to Pro Mini Pin3) Right: Restore U16 Pin 9 (to Pro Mini Pin8)
The last pin is Pin 1 of the new U32. It needs to kept out of the socket and wired to the Pro Mini pin5.
U32 Pin 1 is Not in the Socket, is it connected just to the white wire.
Above you can see the new 64k Switched U32, and the 32k U34 in place. It may not be visible but Pin 1 on U32 is Not in the Socket, it is sticking out on the side and not making contact to the socket. The wire there goes over to Pin5 on the Pro Mini. Since I am using the Pro Mini, as I mentioned there is no Pullup Resistor from Pin 1 to Pin 28 on U32 like would be done with a typical “switch” based JiffyDOS setup. The Pro Mini handles the pullup internally.
Back of the Pro Mini insulated and Velco
I have modified Adrian/Mark’s code so that by default it will do a 4 way Kernal Switch for the Commodore 128. That can only be easily done with 16k ROM sets. Mark’s version had it setup using 16k ROMs with a 4 way switch for 1 of the ROMs (Kernal ROM I believe) and only doing 2 way for the second (Basic ROM). It now does a 4 way switch for both Commodore 128 16k ROMs by default as that seems more natural, although for the 128 16k mode only needs C14 and C128 basic.. so it makes sense that Mark had it set that way. I added a “Max ROMs” entry to easily change behavior in the code below it is set to 4, but for use on my C128 here I set that to “2” as I am using 32k ROMs and only have 2 sets of ROMs. Well I set it for 2 the second time around, I thought I messed up the code when it was trying to do a 4 way switch initially… I miswired the U32 Pin 1 to the wrong output of the Pro Micro, so I had to fix that too. Other than those two little issues it worked as expected mostly.
There is the oddity that when it resets, the Commodore 128 goes directly into 64 Mode. Maybe it doesn’t like the Exrom Reset? It does properly remember the selected Kernal, and it does go into 128 mode when powered on based on the saved Kernal setting, the Reset button on the 128 also takes you to 128 Mode as normal. You may catch that the RF Modulator was changed out on the pictures, you can also find the post other recent post about the RF Mod. The RF Modulator change was certainty worth it for the video quality improvement for 40 Column output. I did all of the changes at the same time.
To switch between ROMs, You Hold the Restore Key down, and wait for it to flash the Power LED the number of flashes for the ROM you want to select. It will first Flash the “current” ROM number, if you release the Restore Key at that point, it will just cause a Reset of the Commodore. If you keep holding it down, it will then flash the Power LED the number of times for the next ROM bank, when releasing it after that it will swap to that ROM and Reset. The Switcher will Remember the Last selected ROM (and I believe at power up it flashes the Power LED to tell you which setting it is on).
I am not certain the code below is correct for 16k 4 way switching for the C128 or not. I was getting U35 and U32 etc all mixed up when working on it. It is the code I compiled and used on my “2” ROM Modes, below it is set for 4 way switching with that set by “NumROMs” value.
#include <EEPROM.h>
// C64/C128 Kernel Switcher and Restore Key Reset/Selector
// Version 1.3 - 03-26-2023 Updates - By Travis Durf
// Based on C64 Kernel Switcher - 26-March-2019 - By Adrian Black
// Restore Key Mod: https://www.breadbox64.com/blog/c64-restore-mod/
// Initial C128 Changes - 06-22-2020 - By Mark Ormond aka dabone
/*
"The Simple" Pro-Mini
DTR TX RX VCC GND GND
+--------------------------------+
| [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] [ ] |
| FTDI |
D1 | [ ]1/TX RAW[ ] |
D0 | [ ]0/RX GND[ ] |
| [ ]RST SCL/A5[ ] RST[ ] | C6
| [ ]GND SDA/A4[ ] VCC[ ] |
D2 | [ ]2/INT0 ___ A3[ ] | C3
D3 |~[X]3/INT1 / \ A2[ ] | C2
D4 | [X]4 /PRO \ A1[ ] | C1
D5 |~[X]5 \ MINI/ A0[ ] | C0
D6 |~[X]6 \___/ SCK/13[ ] | B5
D7 | [X]7 MISO/12[ ] | B4
B0 | [X]8 [RST-BTN] MOSI/11[ ]~| B3
B1 |~[X]9 GND[ ]A6[ ]A7[ ]SS/10[X]~| B2
+--------------------------------+
Based on: http://busyducks.com/ascii-art-arduinos
D3 to EXROMLine (C128 U11 (PLA) Pin12)
D4 to PowerLED to 220 Ohm resistor to Power LED
D5 to C64 A13, C128 U32 (A14) Pin27
D6 to C64 A14 27256(32kB), C128 U32 (A15) Pin1 With 27512(64kB) EEPROM 32kB ROMs
D7 to ResetLine (C128 U63 Pin2)
D8 to RestoreKey (C128 U16 Pin9)
D9 to C128 U35 (A14) Pin27
D10 to C128 U35 (A15) Pin1 With 27512(64kB) EEPROM 16kB ROMs
Set "NumROMs" to be the Maximum Number of ROMs. 2-4 Default is "4"
For Commodore 64:
To do 4 ROM Sets you can use a 27256(32kB) EEPROM with A13 and A14
You can use a 27128(16kB) EEPROM and do 2 ROM Sets with A13.
For Commodore 128:
To do 4 ROM Sets on a stock C128 Flat that uses 16k ROMs you can use 27512(64kB) EEPROMs with A14 and A15
You can use 27256(32kB) EEPROMs and do 2 ROM Sets with A14.
For C128 Flat/D set to 32kB ROMs, or DCR (Both use 32kB ROMs), you can use 27512(64kB) EEPROMs to do 2 ROM sets with A15.
When doing 32kB C128 ROMs you only use U32 and only use A15 as A14 is kept in the Socket and controlled by the C128.
U35 is removed in the 32kB ROM configuration and is now included in the 32kB based U32 now. The drawback here is you can only
do two ROM Sets with the 27512 EEPROMs.
The C128 Basic ROMs must be replaced with a new 32kB Basic ROM (basic.390393-01.bin) in U34, also removing U33.
*/
const int EXROMLine = 3; // Output the /EXROM line
const int PowerLED = 4; // Output Power LED
const int PowerLEDAlt = 13; // Output Power LED (onboard LED)
const int RomAOne = 5; // Output EPROM C64 A13 (C128 16kB Mode U32 Pin27 A14, 32kB Mode U32 Pin1 A15)
const int RomATwo = 6; // Output EPROM C64 A14 (C128 16kB Mode U32 Pin1 A15 27512 EEPROM)
const int ResetLine = 7; // Output to /RESET line
const int RestoreKey = 8; // Input Restore key
const int RomBOne = 9; // Output EEPROM C128 16kB U35 Pin27 A14
const int RomBTwo = 10; // Output EEPROM C128 16kB U35 Pin1 A15 27512 EEPROM
int RestoreDelay = 2000; // 2000ms delay for restore key
const int FlashSpeed = 75; // LED Flash delay
const unsigned long repeatdelay = 500; // used for debouncing
const int NumROMs = 4; // Maximum Number of ROMs
int CurrentROM; // which rom is select (0-3)
int debouncecounter = 0; // how many times we have seen new value (for debounce)
int debouncereading;
int debounce_count;
int RestoreHeld;
unsigned long TimeHeld; // amount of time Restore is held down
int buttonDuration = 0; // for keeping track of how long restore is held down
boolean buttonHeld = 0; // for keeping track when you are holding down
boolean Released = 0; // Keeping track when the restore key is released
boolean holdingRestore = 0; // Keeping track if you are holding restore
boolean resetSystem = 0; // keep track whether to reset
int buttonInput; // used to return if restore is held
unsigned long time; //used to keep track of millis output
unsigned long htime; //used to keep track of millis output
unsigned long btime; //used to keep track of bounce millis output
void setup() {
pinMode(PowerLED, OUTPUT);
pinMode(PowerLEDAlt, OUTPUT);
pinMode(RomAOne, OUTPUT);
pinMode(RomATwo, OUTPUT);
pinMode(RomBOne, OUTPUT);
pinMode(RomBTwo, OUTPUT);
pinMode(ResetLine, INPUT);
pinMode(EXROMLine, INPUT);
pinMode(RestoreKey, INPUT);
digitalWrite(PowerLED, HIGH); // turn on the power LED
digitalWrite(ResetLine, LOW); // keep the system reset
pinMode(ResetLine, OUTPUT); // switch reset line to OUTPUT so it can hold it low
digitalWrite(ResetLine, LOW); // keep the system reset
CurrentROM = EEPROM.read(1);
SetSlot(CurrentROM);
delay(200);
pinMode(ResetLine, INPUT); // set the reset pin back to high impedance which releases the INPUT line
delay(1000); // wait 1000ms
FlashLED(CurrentROM); // flash the power LED to show the current state
// all set!
}
void loop() {
buttonInput = readButton(); delay(500);
time = millis(); // load the number of milliseconds the arduino has been running into variable time
if (buttonInput == 1) {
if (!buttonHeld) {
htime = time; TimeHeld = 0; buttonHeld = 1; } //restore button is pushed
else {
TimeHeld = time - htime; } // button is being held down, keep track of total time held.
}
if (buttonInput == 0) {
if (buttonHeld) {
Released = 1; buttonHeld = 0; htime = millis(); TimeHeld = 0; //restore button not being held anymore
}
}
if (TimeHeld > RestoreDelay && !Released) { // do this when the time the button is held is longer than the delay and the button is released
htime = millis();
if (holdingRestore == 0) { FlashLED(CurrentROM); holdingRestore = 1; resetSystem = 1; } // first time this is run, so flash the LED with current slot and reset time held. Set the holding restore variable.
else {
if (CurrentROM < NumROMs - 1) { CurrentROM++; SaveSlot(CurrentROM); } // or you've already been holding restore, so increment the current ROM slot otherwise reset it to 0
else { CurrentROM = 0; SaveSlot(CurrentROM); }
if (TimeHeld > RestoreDelay) { TimeHeld = 0;} // reset the time held
FlashLED(CurrentROM); //flash the LED
}
}
if (Released) {
//if time held greater than restore delay, reset the system, set the current rom slot, reselt the time held and holding restore
if (resetSystem) { // on do this if the reset system has been set above
htime = millis();
resetSystem = 0;
holdingRestore = 0;
Released = 0;
digitalWrite(ResetLine, LOW); // keep the system reset
digitalWrite(EXROMLine, LOW); // keep the EXROM line low
pinMode(ResetLine, OUTPUT);
pinMode(EXROMLine, OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(ResetLine, LOW); // keep the system reset
digitalWrite(EXROMLine, LOW); // keep the EXROM line low
delay(50); // wait 50ms
SetSlot(CurrentROM); // select the appropriate kernal ROM
delay(200); // wait 200ms before releasing RESET line
pinMode(ResetLine, INPUT); // set the reset pin back to high impedance so computer boots
delay(300); // wait 300ms before releasing EXROM line
pinMode(EXROMLine, INPUT); // set the reset pin back to high impedance so computer boots
} else { //otherwise do nothing
htime = millis(); Released = 0; resetSystem = 0; holdingRestore = 0;
}
}
// finished with loop
}
int readButton() {
if (!digitalRead(RestoreKey) && (millis() - btime >= repeatdelay)) {
for(int i = 0; i < 10; i++)
{
debouncereading = !digitalRead(RestoreKey);
if(!debouncereading && debouncecounter > 0)
{
debouncecounter--;
}
if(debouncereading)
{
debouncecounter++;
}
// If the Input has shown the same value for long enough let's switch it
if(debouncecounter >= debounce_count)
{
btime = millis();
debouncecounter = 0;
RestoreHeld = 1;
}
delay (10); // wait 10ms
}
} else {
RestoreHeld = 0;
}
return RestoreHeld;
}
void SaveSlot(int CurrentRomSlot) {
// Save Current ROM selection (0-3) into EPROM
EEPROM.write(1,CurrentRomSlot);
}
void FlashLED(int flashcount) {
// Flash the LED to represent which ROM slot is selected
switch (flashcount) {
case 0:
digitalWrite(PowerLED, LOW);
digitalWrite(PowerLEDAlt, LOW);
delay(FlashSpeed);
digitalWrite(PowerLED, HIGH);
digitalWrite(PowerLEDAlt, HIGH);
break;
case 1:
digitalWrite(PowerLED, LOW);
digitalWrite(PowerLEDAlt, LOW);
delay(FlashSpeed);
digitalWrite(PowerLED, HIGH);
digitalWrite(PowerLEDAlt, HIGH);
delay(FlashSpeed);
digitalWrite(PowerLED, LOW);
digitalWrite(PowerLEDAlt, LOW);
delay(FlashSpeed);
digitalWrite(PowerLED, HIGH);
digitalWrite(PowerLEDAlt, HIGH);
break;
case 2:
digitalWrite(PowerLED, LOW);
digitalWrite(PowerLEDAlt, LOW);
delay(FlashSpeed);
digitalWrite(PowerLED, HIGH);
digitalWrite(PowerLEDAlt, HIGH);
delay(FlashSpeed);
digitalWrite(PowerLED, LOW);
digitalWrite(PowerLEDAlt, LOW);
delay(FlashSpeed);
digitalWrite(PowerLED, HIGH);
digitalWrite(PowerLEDAlt, HIGH);
delay(FlashSpeed);
digitalWrite(PowerLED, LOW);
digitalWrite(PowerLEDAlt, LOW);
delay(FlashSpeed);
digitalWrite(PowerLED, HIGH);
digitalWrite(PowerLEDAlt, HIGH);
break;
case 3:
digitalWrite(PowerLED, LOW);
digitalWrite(PowerLEDAlt, LOW);
delay(FlashSpeed);
digitalWrite(PowerLED, HIGH);
digitalWrite(PowerLEDAlt, HIGH);
delay(FlashSpeed);
digitalWrite(PowerLED, LOW);
digitalWrite(PowerLEDAlt, LOW);
delay(FlashSpeed);
digitalWrite(PowerLED, HIGH);
digitalWrite(PowerLEDAlt, HIGH);
delay(FlashSpeed);
digitalWrite(PowerLED, LOW);
digitalWrite(PowerLEDAlt, LOW);
delay(FlashSpeed);
digitalWrite(PowerLED, HIGH);
digitalWrite(PowerLEDAlt, HIGH);
delay(FlashSpeed);
digitalWrite(PowerLED, LOW);
digitalWrite(PowerLEDAlt, LOW);
delay(FlashSpeed);
digitalWrite(PowerLED, HIGH);
digitalWrite(PowerLEDAlt, HIGH);
break;
default:
digitalWrite(PowerLED, LOW);
digitalWrite(PowerLEDAlt, LOW);
delay(FlashSpeed);
digitalWrite(PowerLED, HIGH);
digitalWrite(PowerLEDAlt, HIGH);
break;
}
}
void SetSlot(int DesiredRomSlot) {
// Select the actual ROM slot being used
switch (DesiredRomSlot) {
//Stock-Kernal0
case 0:
digitalWrite(RomAOne, LOW);
digitalWrite(RomATwo, LOW);
digitalWrite(RomBOne, LOW);
digitalWrite(RomBTwo, LOW);
break;
//Kernal1
case 1:
digitalWrite(RomAOne, HIGH);
digitalWrite(RomATwo, LOW);
digitalWrite(RomBOne, HIGH);
digitalWrite(RomBTwo, LOW);
break;
//Kernal2
case 2:
digitalWrite(RomAOne, LOW);
digitalWrite(RomATwo, HIGH);
digitalWrite(RomBOne, LOW);
digitalWrite(RomBTwo, HIGH);
break;
//Kernal3
case 3:
digitalWrite(RomAOne, HIGH);
digitalWrite(RomATwo, HIGH);
digitalWrite(RomBOne, HIGH);
digitalWrite(RomBTwo, HIGH);
break;
default:
digitalWrite(RomAOne, LOW);
digitalWrite(RomATwo, LOW);
digitalWrite(RomBOne, LOW);
digitalWrite(RomBTwo, LOW);
break;
}
}
While I was working on the Commodore 128, I had been having issues with the Cartridge Port reading correctly. So while I had the board out I reflowed all the pins on the cartridge port. Upon getting the Kernal Switcher (and RF Modulator change) done I put in two different cartridges and both worked properly the first time. I’m hoping this means my Commodore 128 is in good working order now. It is annoying not being able to use cartridges reliably. On further testing of the Cartridge Port, I found it was still not working reliably. I have just cleaned it out again, using 99% IPA and some folded cardstock. On the two cartridge tests I did have that, they both worked, we will see I guess.. I tried the RAD REU on it but it wasn’t working properly. My Kung Fu Flash kind of works on it. I am not sure if those issues are related to the cartridge port being flakey yet. I do have to do more testing with JiffyDOS. I need to try it out with my 1541ii that has a Vintage JiffyDOS rom in it. I also purchased JiffyDOS to put on my pi1541, I did a little testing with that.
I realized I forgot to show a JiffyDOS 128 80 Column RGB Video screen shot. You see it adds the JiffyDOS line to the startup screen there.
The Commodore 64 326298 Rev A has a different reset circuit. The 556 is wired in with a way that it keeps the reset line pulled to 5V and will supply as much current to that as it can. There are various ways to rework the circuit from over the years. I was looking at the least invasive way to accomplish this. I ran across a post on the Backbit Forum, as this reset being the way it is prevents the Backbit cartridge from working properly. It also affects other cartridges that use the Reset or have Reset buttons integrated into them. When they try to pull Reset to Ground the 556 works hard to keep it from resetting. It may crash the computer or cause glitches, probably as much as anything because it pulls the 5V line down starving the computer for power.
The process posted on the forum was to install a 1k Resistor in R36. This is a pull up resistor that keeps the Reset line pulled to 5V but “gently”. If it is missing the system could randomly reset, or be stuck in reset. The second part is to disconnect Pin9 on the 556 IC. We only want to disconnect the pin, the “wire” that is in the board there needs to remain connected. The simplest and easiest way to accomplish this would be to cut the leg off the 556. I didn’t want to do that.
What I ended up doing was desoldering the 556 from the board. I then took a 14pin machine pin IC Socket and clipped the bottom of Pin9 from it. I then paced he modified socket into the board so that Pin9 on the 556 is not going to the board. The Wire though is still going from the Pin9 Pad to Pin13 but that wire is no longer making contact with Pin9 of the 556. I then installed the 556 into the socket. On power on the system didn’t work. I checked the work, and then also tested the 556. The 556 had failed, it may have been during desoldering it, but it also may be that a portion of the 556 had been damaged by trying to use the Reset button on my cartridge. It may still have worked with Pin9 connected. I did have a spare so I tested the replacement and installed it. On powering it up the system worked normally again. I also tested using the reset button on the cartridge and that worked properly now. R36 is installed, it is a 1.5k resistor, a special precision one I have a small stock of, as I was short on 1k resistors at the time.
BeforeAfter: Pin9 on the socket it clipped. R36 added
I believe if I had not done the Reset Modification that my next Modification, the Switchless Kernel ROM probably wouldn’t have worked normally. It also pulls Reset low, which it couldn’t sink all the current required to overcome the 556 previously.
C38 was previously replaced with a 4.7nF capacitor when I replaced the Electrolytic Capacitors to make the Restore key responsive. With the factory 51pF capacitor you have the hit the Restore key quite hard to get it to register usually, I don’t know if that would in any way affect the Kernal Switcher, as I haven’t seen it said that mod needs to be done. I did it as part of the recaping process based on it being recommended by Console5 where I purchased the kit. It did work as described, I tested both before and after switching that capacitor out.
Kernel Switcher:
The I am using bwak’s SKS64 “C64-Switchless-Multi-Kernal-27C256-adapter” project. This is a custom PCB that works as an adapter to install a 27256 as a 4 way Kernal ROM replacement. It is controlled with an ATTiny85, an early version used a PIC instead. I happened to have some ATTiny85s and liked the idea of using one for this. There are also ATMega based Arduino type board options out there. I am using a Pro Mini Arduino board for my Commodore 128 Switchless Kernal. This ATTiny was a neater solution for this, it is a all-in-one option as we already need an adapter board to convert the 27256 to work with the Commodore 64.
It has very good documentation at his Github page. There are considerations on what order your solder the parts together. He does cover that in his documentation.
PartsTop CompleteBottom CompleteThe one inner pin row and 8pin Socket must be installed first and flush cut to fit the main socket on the top. I feel it best to install the resistors before the top socket as well.Here is the bottom view with those parts on it.
The documentation shows where you can tap into the required signals on the C64 mainboard. The Reset, Restore and EXRom lines. Keep in mind the images below are for the 326298 Rev A, the guide from bwak shows similar images of all the various board types for reference.
Restore PinReset PinExRom Pin
I preped the board putting in single angled pin headers for the three signals and replaced the old single wipe socket for the Kernal ic. Of course I messed up and used the only socket I had, which you can see in the picture is solid in the center so the ATTiny85 on the bottom of the adapter can’t go in place.. So I have to replace it again, this time with machine pin header strips, as I don’t have an appropriate machine pin or other hollowed out socket to put on the board.
Opps wrong socket..
Since I had the wrong socket, I had to use the Turn Pin socket strips.
Now that the socket problem is sorted, I can get the adapter installed.
Switcher with the required header wires.
I was glad I was able to use some premade dupont cables I had. They are actually all premade cables from my breadboard cables I have. For the LED cable I just swapped the single dupont plastic holder for a tripple holder. There is an issue with just using the stock Red LED, but for now it works.
Note: I quickly replaced the Stock Red LED with a RGB LED, while it worked and the pictures in this section are showing the wiring for that, you only had the LED on if it was in Kernal 1, so the computer didn’t give an indication on the case that the power was on. The code could be change to always keep the RED LED on and just blink, but I didn’t want to look into what that involved. I just went with swapping to the RGB LED as I had them anyways.
The documentation is a lacking information on making the file to program the Eprom. You can get information from bwak on doing similar things by looking at the documentation on his VersaCart project. I’ll cover some basics blow.
The 27c256 is a 32k Eprom that can hold four 8k Kernal ROMs. I program the Eprom with my TL866ii plus.
To prepare the bin file for the Eprom. I collected them all in the same folder. I am using the Stock Kernal for the first one, then JiffyDos from RetroInovations, MasterRom 64, and JaffyDos (customized JiffyDos). Taking those 4 files in a folder, then open a Command Prompt window and while in the folder with the files use the command below. This is for the exact filenames I had, so your do need to be sure to enter the filenames you have instead. The U4_32KuB.bin is the 32k bin file I will use with my TL866ii to program the 27c256 Eprom. The code below it all in 1 line, if it is wrapped to two or more lines when viewing this page keep that in mind.
I will say JaffyDOS was a bit annoying to create. I couldn’t find proper instructions on how to accomplish it. JaffyDOS is created with a Commodore 64 .prg. You need to run it from the Commodore 64 Vice Emulator. You answer some customization settings once you manage to get it mounted properly and get it to where it can find your “JiffyDOS_C64_6.01.bin” which it has to be able to access. Running it properly will then create the jaffydos.bin file in the same folder as “JiffyDOS_C64_6.01.bin” had been located in. I did find some apparently outdated and possibly incomplete instructions and fumbled through getting the prg in Vice and the folder where the JiffyDOS bin was.
Once you have the 32k bin it is a simple task to use the TL866ii to burn the data to the Eprom. I will not go into detail on that, it is easy to find instructions on using at TL866 to program an Eprom or EEprom etc.
So the next bit that was a bit lacking in the documentation is programming the ATTiny85. You need to setup the Arduino IDE to be able to use the ATTiny85, and use bwak’s files to compile the program file. bwak does cover that you need to disable the Reset pin on the ATTiny if you want to use the EXRom function which enables doing a Hard Reset rather than the standard “Soft” Reset, if you are just using the Arduino IDE to program the ATTiny, then I don’t know how you disable the Reset pin, I think one or more of the ATTiny board types can do that. The ATTiny core I use for Arduino apparently doesn’t, or doesn’t make it obvious how to to it. The main reason I expect is they don’t want it to be easy for you to accidentally doing it without knowing that you will no longer be able to program the ATTiny with the Arduino IDE you will then have to use a HV(High Voltage) Programmer. If you have a TL866ii, it is a HV Programmer, it can set the Reset disable fuse, and also enable reset again if needed as well. He does cover that in his document. I actually used the Arduino IDE to program the ATTiny85, then used the TL866ii Plus to disable the ATTiny’s Reset pin fuse. You can also use the TL866ii to upload the Hex file created by the Arduino IDE though, which is in bwak’s document.
For now I just have the Stock LED in place. I will have to finish wiring up a RGB LED so I can then see which ROM is enabled by looking at it. I was hoping it would just keep the standard LED enabled, maybe somewhere in the code there is an option to tell it to just use the RED LED, I didn’t notice it though. The board looks like it is intended to be alternately used with the Stock LED though.
Beyond the LED being off for all but the First ROM (the Stock ROM in my case) it is working great. I’ll get that LED wired up and installed shortly. I have the right RGB LED, I just didn’t get around to making it up initially, I really didn’t want to make it up. I may look at the Code and see if there is an option to change the LED output behavior it is about as easy to make up the RGB LED as it is to pull the chip and recompile the code.
I have been unhappy with the regular 40 Column video output on my Commodore 128. Watching a video by TheRetroChannel on Youtube, I saw his RF Module replacement. I feel technically that is not the right thing to call these types of boards, they “replace” the RF Module, but they are not “Replacement RF Modules”. You loose the “RF” Output, this really isn’t an issue as not many people would likely want to ever connect up the Commodore 128/64 by RF to an old TV tuned to Channel 3/4.
He released the board designs on Github as open source projects. There are two versions the C64 Longboard and the C64 Shortboard/C128 versions. For the Commodore 128 I needed the short board version, so I ordered them from JLCPCB. This is specifically the board that fits the Commodore 64 Short Board and Commodore 128 as they share the same type of Modulator. He also made a Commodore 64 Long Board version, they are basically the same but the Long Board version is a bit larger pcb to fit the Long Board properly.
The boards have various options on them. I have populated everything except the C64 Hard Reset section. This is for a Commodore 128 after all, and it already has a reset button. That isn’t a Hard Reset though, but by the time I install this that also won’t be an option. It is indicated it may not work on the C128 though I don’t know if that is the case or not.
I put on the 500 Ohm Trimmer Pots rather than the default resistors. I had the exact parts in stock, and I have a fair quantity of them, I purchased them for some project, maybe even when I was working on the earlier RGBI Adapter builds years ago. I did set them to match the set resistors as a starting point. The center and “right” pin have to be set to the baseline value, 75 Ohm and 180 Ohm I believe. I don’t know if I will have to do any adjustments on them or not (they were perfect at those starting values), but I had them and it made sense to me to use them. I probably have more of those Trimmers than resistors of the correct values anyways. This whole board was populated with parts I had in stock, the Audio jack was salvaged, but everything else is new. It was neat having a project I had everything for.
Parts
It was a strait forward build, everything is labeled. The two capacitors are labeled on the bottom of the board instead of the top, that did have me almost putting them in the wrong locations. It is easy to transpose the positions when flipping something over. I know he mentioned he made is so that the parts would cover up most of the silk screen markings. When assembled it does look pretty nice too. The only other thing I did check which pins on the Trimmers needed the proper baseline resistance set on them, but that was easy. I picked the White boards as I thought it would look nice when installed as well. It won’t clash with the color of the C128 board, or look like some poor attempt to color match it.
I am going to start with the normal Chroma/Luma paths. I will test that everything is working properly there, then I plan to switch to the External Chroma/Luma lines. The whole reason I am doing this modification is to try to improve the poor video quality I get from the VIC 40 Column video output. My Commodore 64s have far superior Video Output to the C128.
I really don’t need the SVideo and 3.5mm Audio Jack output. I have my RGBI Video Adapter which already has level adjusted SVideo and the SVideo jack (which is why I had a spare SVideo jack in my stash of parts), plus the Audio Jack on it. It won’t hurt to have them. It was unclear as to if the Chroma/Luma output on the Commodore AV Port was still active, but looking at the Schematics and board itself it is still connected.
Again, it was an easy build. TheRetroChannel does say the hard part of this mod is removing the RF Modulator module from the C128/64 board. He is correct, I have removed three of them, and well it is not something I look forward to.
I desoldered the factory RF Modulator, and stuck in the new unit. I fit it without soldering. The pins helped hold it reasonably secure so it wasn’t sliding around. So I did a test fit, and put the board in the case to get it lined up to the openings properly.
You can see that it is crooked in relation to the board. This is due to the alignment of the holes in the case having the opening for the “switch” lower than the “RF” port opening. Once I had it set where I wanted it, I carefully removed the boards from the case. I then tacked some of the pins with a bit of solder. I fitted it back inside the case again to make sure it didn’t move. Then I removed it from the case again and finished soldering it in. It was not difficult to align the board, as the pins held it fairly firmly in place as there are 12 pins they gave enough friction to not have it flop around while I was lifting it out of the case or flipping it over to solder.
It is in and the pins are all cut down properly. It was time to test it. I wanted to get some pictures of the output before switching out the modulator, but I forgot.. I fully remember it was awful in comparison to both of my Commodore 64s even in SVideo output. I was hoping I had some pictures of testing the SVideo output when I built the new RGBI adapter. I didn’t take pictures of the SVideo output. It was still awful at the time..
Composite without the Jumper..Composite VideoSVideo
There is a jumper on the board to enable the Composite video, I believe the Chroma line to it. If you are just going to use SVideo, having it disabled is to slightly improve the output. I forgot to install it and ended up with the first screen above, basically no color except the “noise” around the text. The second shot is the Composite after putting the Jumper on. The last being SVideo output. The SVideo is much cleaner with no noise around the text. Even the Composite is a huge improvement over having the RF Modulator installed.
I wish I had some pictures of the Before. It is dramatic in this case. I was going to do the Chroma / Luma Bypass, those two pins on the lower right of the board. Without doing that, the video is comparable to my Commodore 64s. I feel it isn’t worth it at this point. I don’t want to bend out the VIC’s Chroma and Luma pins from the socket and solder wires to them. The improvement as it is was totally worth it. The two trimmer potentiometers are left set on the 180 and 75 ohm settings, I didn’t see a reason to adjust either at this point. I figure your probably safe to put in the standard resistors for those unless you want to go all out and tweak it to perfection. The same wit the Chroma / Luma bypass. You can still see Jailbars on the display, they are far better and overall the image is much sharper and cleaner.
I have recently build one of these up and installed it in a C64 Shortboard. For that one I did populate the Hard Reset section, but I didn’t put in a button or wire it in at this time. I used the regular resistors instead of the trimpots. I modified the Audio Jack to sit lower on the pcb, the jack I used is nearly identical to the one shown here. That helped the board sit more level in the C64 than on the C128 here. There are multiple pads for the Audio Jack, I was thinking maybe it is compatible with a slimmer jack type, but I didn’t want to risk it. I do have a slimmer jack that looks like it may have fit. The slimmer jack doesn’t seem as well built though, so I used the style I had used previously. You can lookup the more recent post showing that board. It is the same though, except sitting a bit more level due to the slightly lower mounted audio jack.
I worked up some 3D Printable Cases for the C128 RBGI/CGA to Analog RGB Adapter boards.
I am trying to get away from TinkerCAD, the AMpI4 case (See the post on that here) that I made in TinkerCAD turned out for me. It was a lot of work and it is complex to make modifications to that model when I need/want to.
This time I went back to DesignSpark Mechanical, which is what I started with for the AMpI4 case. I wasn’t ready for a project like that as my first real attempt to make anything in it. This time it was painful as well, but it is a much easier project. I learned a fair bit, but have a long way to go. The case hasn’t turned out perfect, but I’m quite happy with it overall. I make make a couple adjustments to it yet. To start with a made up a mockup of the physical board. That took awhile, then I realized I could export a 3d model of the board from KiCad. When I found that option, I went back and partially started over. I then just had to model the various ports. I did not size them to real world size, I upsized them to be used as the penetrations in the case exterior.
I ended up with making two prototype case prints. The first one showed me the primary mistakes. The SVideo Mini DIN Port opening was too small. The port was accessible with it being properly uncovered, but the outer plastic of the SVideo cable couldn’t get into the opening as it has to go down flush to the port. The RCA ports were correct, they don’t go the whole way down around the outside. The 5V Barrel jack was properly sized for 3 different power cables I tested with it. The DE9 was right. The screw holes placement for the HD15 port were 1mm to high, the whole port was 1mm to high, the cutout and all. This may be due to me using the DE9 measurements as the basis for both openings. I resized the Mini DIN opening, dropped the screw holes for the HD15 port and made the case thicker overall. The first case closed properly, all port alignments were right (short of the HD15 height), the mounting holes for the board and the posts were all correct. I made those adjustments and printed another test of what is now the “all” version of the case. The revised case printed out well, the Mini DIN Port cable now fit properly, the screws for the HD15 were aligned properly and the case was not as flimsy feeling. Once that all checked out, I went back into DesignSpark Mechanical and made up my variant cases from the initial “all” openings case. It was easy to make those variants as it only took a couple minutes. If I was familiar with it I bet it would be more like 2 minutes to do the modifications. I am still very unfamiliar with it, but I like the greater control with the model compared to TinkerCAD.
There are 3 versions of the case, the “all”, the “CGA” and the “C128” variants.
The “all” case has openings for all of the ports.
As you can see the case design is a split top case. There are no overhangs (except the DB/DE screw holes and the underside holes) that require support when printing. There is a slight rounding on the corners. With the settings I am using on my printer it takes about around 1.5hours per half of the case. I normally print faster on my Ender 3 Pro, but the filament I am using didn’t like that. It is some old PLA+ and that particular filament always gets moisture in it. To speed up the process I ended up printing each half on one of my two printers. That is why the filament is different for each, as I didn’t have two spools of the same color. I printing in PLA/PLA+ incase I wanted to paint the case. The color is an acceptable color for the use though. I plan on making up a version of the labels I put on my prototype to put on the tops of the cases. I’ll have to get ink cartridges in the printer before I an make the labels up though. The DE9/HD15 ports have the holes for the standoffs in the lower case shell. The bottom of the case has 4 holes in it for screws to go up through into the standoffs on the top half of the case to keep it shut. I don’t put the Standoffs in tight until I have the bottom screws in to prevent cracking something. With the case design, it does take opening the case to move the jumpers of course. I’d rather not have holes in the top for stuff to fall in, it is also hard swap jumpers in openings like that. It may be possible to rework the PCB to have some sort of DIP Switch. That makes another part to have to source, but it is possible to use that footprint for Jumpers too. DIP Swithes though are generally SPST, not SPDT which is what three of those jumpers need. I do have “mini” SPDT Switches, which I actually intended to install into the C128 type board, but I forgot to. They fit the 3pin Pin Header footprint, and have a narrow somewhat tall slide. These are used on some Commodore 64 (and I am sure other) New and Reproduction cartridges such as my C64 Diag/DeadTest Cartridge. I have also used them on some cartridges, like the C128 Multi Diag Cartridge I made awhile ago. For those mini switches it could be possible to design a case top that let you change them either with small openings, or even make extension caps that let you toggle the switches with the case closed. I don’t expect to be switching the configuration of the adapters often. The SCART to HDMI adapter was unstable in testing the games and was said to introduce lag, I’ll likely just use these with my GBS Control adapter instead. I’d love to be able to use them with my Sony PVM, but it takes a 4V Sync signal, I haven’t even looking at what may be done to adapt that from the ~1V Sync that normally is put out with RGBI/CGA.
The “C128” case is modified to accept my slightly custom RGBI board and has openings for the four Commodore 128 specific ports along the left side. It doesn’t have an opening for the DE9 Male port, as I am using a short “dongle” type cable out the side. It has a smaller opening where the 5V DC barrel jack would be and a second matched opening beside that for my two “dongle” cables grommets to rest in.
I use the short “dongle” cables there for the C128 version as I don’t want to have to make up short stubby cables to plug into ports. I also don’t want to make a custom Commodore AV Cable of some type. It gets more complex trying to find a port and jack for the Commodore AV Cable, then everyone who wants to make one needs to source the same “odd” port and jack. It is bad enough getting the Commodore AV Port “U” DIN connector. Since I am using that short AV dongle there is no good reason to make up a shot stubby DE9 Male to Female cable either. In my case that is part of an old DE9 Serial Modem cable. The grommets fit the cables snuggly and are from a case of grommets I picked up at Harbor Freight. I sized the holes to accept those grommets.
The third type of case is the “CGA” Case. It doesn’t have any of the Commodore 128 ports on the side, but has all the other normal openings in it. The case should be easy to modify with various 3d modeling packages, even with Tinkercad or such if you want different openings.
The case isn’t perfect but I’m happy with it. The holes in the bottom were meant to take recessed M3 screws. The recesses aren’t deep, or wide enough. I have already printed 4 cases today for just 2 adapters, so I don’t plan to rework the recesses. I also don’t have any tapered M3 screws of an appropriate length. It seems to close well with M3 screws, I made the holes in the top standoffs to be hollowed out quite deeply, but something like a 10mm or probably 8mm screw is sufficient. My cases are printed out of PLA on two different printers and the holes worked well on both, the holes are a good fit for the M3 screws on both, but each printer is a bit different. I thought of putting Threaded Brass Inserts in, which takes a larger hole, but there is alot of variation on what size and depth they need to be. It is hard to make a “universal” case when using brass inserts. I have some super cheap thin ones, them my good ones are massive.. When sitting the case together there is a slight pulling at the corners, but on putting the screws in the minor gaps close up tightly. With my cases the fact it is made of two different materials does make it stand out a bit, but I kind of like the look. It should print fine in PETG. I used PLA as I have more color options, and if I decide I want to color match it with paint, PLA is the better option. I like doing prints in Transparent PETG, but this is for use with an 80s Era Computer not an iMac. I have a couple opaque PETG filaments, but not one in a color that I felt was appropriate.
Above are pictures of the closed up cases from various angles. I also showed some bottom views where the screws are present. It is quite bland looking and you can’t tell what it is for by just looking at it. I want to make labels similar to the prototype, but I’ll need ink for the printer before making them.
After assembly I did some testing with the Commodore 128 with my GBS Control (see post on that for details) taking the 80 Column output the rest of the way to standard VGA.
I did test the Monochrome Composite 80 Column Output after doing my bodge on the V1.2 board the Monochrome Composite 80 Column worked properly after. The Monochrome 80 Column is fixed on the released V1.3 Board design. I really don’t know why anyone would use it, it can very easily be used just connecting directly to the pin on the RGBi Video Port. I only added it because I could.
I went back and finally looked at H2Obsession’s “Ultimate” adapter project. He included a “Dark Gray” fix as well. I wasn’t aware there was an issue with Dark Gray. I’ll have to look at it and see why that was done. It should be simple enough to add. I’m also thinking about the PVM taking 5V CSync for RGB. I’m wondering if I could come up with an option for that.
Here are a few pictures of the Commodore 128 setup. It is a bit crowded with projects, most of them have posts here on the blog. The Commodore 64 replacement Power Supply, a Commodore 64 to Commodore 128 Power Supply Adapter cable (I don’t have post about it, It takes the C64 power jack on once side and the Commodore 128 plug is from “Hey Birt!“. My C64 power supplies were built for higher current than the factory model making them able to handle the C128’s requirement fine. I used Drunk “n” Retro’s Diagram, which you can find many examples of diagrams to do so ). I do have the serviced Commodore 128 Power Supply, but it is easier to just swap in the adapter cable, than having both out on the desk. The Commodore 128 is connected to the Samsung 940MW TV I repaired. I of course have the RGBI Adapter tucked in under the monitor. I do have the Monochrome Composite 80 column connected up to the TV, as I was testing it. I also have the 40 Column SVideo connected to the TV. The RGBI Adapter is connected across to the GBS Control (silver box on the right under the pi1541 which is another project). Then the Commodore 128 which I serviced, but I guess I have no post on servicing it. I’m still debating painting it, I won’t be retrobrighting it.
Finally the gamepad project, which I don’t have a post about. It is far from flawless, the Dpad isn’t great. It has 2 buttons, the normal fire button on the left and “button 2” is either “Up” or wired to one of the Pot inputs. It also has an adjustable speed 555 based Rapid Fire option for the primary Fire button. I want to revisit that project, maybe then I’ll make a post about it.
I made up some labels for the two units I built up. Below you will see the original 2019 prototype with the new 2023 label. I made that label the same way as before. It was printed on plain inkjet paper. Then covered with adhesive laminate film and cut to size. In 2019 I masked off the “case” and sprayed adhesive spray onto the case. I then removed the masking and put the label on it. This time I tried the “easy way” of spraying the paper, as you can see it ended up with the obvious effect of the paper looking like it got something on it showing through. That is why I had originally sprayed the Case instead of the label. This was for testing, and I wasn’t completely happy with the label. I need to get new ink cartridges for my printer and then I may remake the label. The second picture shows the reduced build CGA Adapter’s label. This label was printed on a scrap of HP Adhesive Vinyl. The printer didn’t print quite right due to being out of black ink and the red cutting out too. This label does look better overall although it isn’t perfect. I did put a label for Audio In on the CGA label. It is possible to jumper across the outer two pins of the Audio Out jumper to send the “Audio Output” jack to the “Audio In” Pin on the HD15 port for use with the SCART to HDMI Adapter. All I would have to do is open the case and cut in a hole for the rca jack and install it to the board in the future if I wanted to. I don’t plan to do that currently though.
I think that pretty much wraps up this project. You can see the label on the box there now, and the 128 is running JiffyDOS now. I do have the SID Audio, Monochrome 80 Column Composite, 40 Column SVideo, and of course the RGB through the GBS Control into on the Samsung TV.
The v1.2 boards arrived today. They look good, short of some labels having been reset shortly before making the order that I want to fix. The biggest being the Commodore AV Port header is unlabeled.
I checked placement of all the parts, and I found one issue. ( Thought I found an issue, but I figured out later that the unmodified RCA Jack does “just fit”, it is just quite tight.)
The RCA Jacks fit their footprint perfectly minus a bit of an issue with the back pin. The back pin is a little tight with the specific jacks I am using, which are made to the the correct footprint. I initially thought that they wouldn’t fit, so below you see I filed down the back pin a little to make it easier. But with working on it further, I found they do fit, it is just a little tight depending how you align the pin installing it. So you can either get them to fit, or to make it easier you can grind/file off that little bit of the pin.
With a quick touch up using the Dremel I made the Yellow jack fit nicely. I filed that little upper lip off. The jack doesn’t “have” to be filed down, but it might be a bit tight or if your jacks are a little different it they may require it.
I am making up two of the boards. The first one to replace my original adapter for the Commodore 128. That one will reuse the short Commodore AV Port DIN Cable and the short DB9 Cable from the original. The other board I am building up as a CGA adapter board, I am leaving off the Commodore AV Port parts (mostly) and adding the Barrel Jack for the 5V DC input. I don’t currently have any computers that use CGA, but I figured I have five boards and plenty of parts to put one together
.
The original adapter and the two new ones I am looking to assemble.
I salvaged the cables, ICs and one of the sockets from the original unit as I am scrapping it. I wouldn’t have messed with the IC Socket except I was practicing with my desoldering gun. It turns out I only ordered one VGA port, so I had to salvage one from an old monitor switcher board I have. I managed to get it off, and it is the same footprint as the new one. It wasn’t too easy, but went fine.
The two boards after soldering.
They turned out looking pretty good overall. The right board is the CGA board without the Commodore AV functions. It will take IBM CGA and a 5Volt DC Power adapter to make it into an Analog RGB signal with the CGA Brown Fix applied. That can go into a GBS Board, GBS Control modded board or something like a SCART to HDMI board. The primary limitation with the SCART to HDMI board (other than a lot of latency) is there would be no Audio on the SCART as CGA doesn’t have audio on the cable (for the Commodore 128 the Audio comes from the Commodore AV DIN Port). That and you need a Analog RGB to SCART cable, which my cable is a bit custom, see my cable pint out in the “original” project post from 2019.
The board is a perfect fit into the project box that I used for the original adapter. The openings are all different though, and you can not drop it in once the ports are soldered on. I guess you could “slot” in all the openings, but that leaves gaps from the top, which I don’t like. I plan to design a 3d printable case for the board. That is a part of the project that will have to wait until next weekend and likely longer though. I want to make it so it had all the required openings and is a simple split case that will fully enclose the board.
I do have to check that the boards are wired properly, mostly the Commodore 128 version with the cables. Then I will test the boards and see how it works. I will make the required corrections and changes on the pcb design and upload them to Github.
Above are some pictures of the testing. The Monochrome 80 Column pass through doesn’t work. I wasn’t thinking and passed it through the 74LS244 buffer, which it doesn’t work that way. The v1.3 board design no longer passes the Monochrome 80 Column video through the 74LS244. That is corrected on the v1.3 design I released on Github.
The rest of it works. RGBI works, 40 Column Commodore Composite pass through works. The 40 Column Commodore S-Video pass through and Audio via the RCA Port work properly. My Commodore 128 is being odd, I am not sure if it has something wrong with it, so it has limited my testing options. I did work on the C128 awhile ago, and it all appeared to be working except the cartridge port was being problematic. I haven’t been able to get it to work fully with the pi1541, although the 80column programs I tested are working through the pi1541. It may be because the pi1541 I am using is the 3A+, and the sdcard is setup for my 3B+ instead. I think there is a setting change required for timings.
The first image is through the GBS Control, with scan lines enabled. I have another post where I build GBS Control if you want to see that. The next being the adapter board connected up to the GBS Control. The second row starts with the SCART Converter to HDMI on the same color test. It is brighter due to no scan lines. Then the SCART Adapter connected up. The last picture was me testing an 80 column game using the GBS Control. I did find that the SCART Converter was not being stable when in a game though, it was flickering and blinking in and out. The GBS Control was stable on the same games. I am wondering if it is something with the sync signal. The one IC is a HC chip, which should be either an LS or HTC, that may be doing something to the signal that the SCART Adapter doesn’t like. I have another IC on the way. I’ll be testing the SCART to HDMI again when that comes in. I also did the bodge for the 80 Column Monochrome output and I will be testing that when I put the boards into their new 3d printed cases.