Bartop Arcade Build Part 1

I have been wanting an arcade machine for a long time. These days there are a lot of options out there that make it easier to build your own. I purchased the Bartop Arcade plans from The Geek Pub http://www.thegeekpub.com He has several different plans, from a full sized stand up unit to a tabletop design, as well as the Bartop design that I went with. So you can pick which you want to go with, but be sure to buy the one you want.

It has been a lot of work. I used a 50 Inch Clamp Edge And Saw Guide from Harbor Freight and circular saw to cut the strait cuts out of the pieces. For the arc cuts on the sides I clamped both sides together and used a jig saw to cut them out at the time time to match the cuts. It is hard to see in the picture below, but I rough cut the “upper right corner side” leaving the line and a tiny bit to spare. That let me sperate the two Side “A” parts. I then clamped them together and did the final cut right to the line. I had to go slow with the Jig Saw as to keep the blade making a nice vertical cut. With a table saw it would be much faster for the strait cuts. I optimized the cut layout from the original to help me get some larger extra bits to work with in case I needed them. Below you can see the layout I went with as I laid all the parts back onto the extra half of the 4’x8′ sheet to so that.

I essentially cut out the parts the same as the plans. In the end I found there was an issue with the Marquee Top (B) and Top Door Frame (F). The Marquee Top and Top Door Frame should have been cut at an angle to meet nicely in the back. To correct this, I shortened the Top Door Frame a bit so that it just let the Marquee Top clear it. I then also added T molding to the back side of the Marquee Top, as it was now going to be an exposed edge. If I made another Arcade, I will be changing how I end up cutting that out (Note: See the “Another Bartop Arcade” which the correction was made by having the pieces cut with the proper angles to fit). I may also make some other alterations to make it easier to put in the Marquee itself.

After cutting out all of the pieces, I did sand them all on both sides. You can see in the picture above that I laid them out on top of the second half of the 4’x8′ Sheet of 3/4″ MDF. This does only take half a sheet to make this unit. Depending how you build it though, you do need a bit of corner blocking to glue it up easily. In my case I could have used the “spare for lcd sides” cut into strips for the blocking. I also didn’t use the VESA mount on this build due to the monitor I used not having a VESA Mount option. I did use blocking in the corners, partly the bit off the Door side, and mostly some old pine strips I had around.

Before assembly I used a slot cutter in a router for all of the T molding areas. I used a 1/16″ slot cutter. I took the pieces outside and used a clamp to clamp them down to my saw horse. Then it only took a couple seconds for each on to put in the slot. The biggest thing being to get the slot bit set perfectly center, which you have to get it adjusted properly, which I tested on a scrap. The other thing, use a mask for this, it was awful the first one blew back right at me. Beyond that it is easy to put in the slot.

I assembled the unit with corner blocking, glue and brads like was done by Mike at The Geek Pub in his video on his Youtube Channel (which I believe are also linked on his website where you can buy his plans). Other methods could be used, if you want you can use screws. He mentioned Pocket screws, which I do have, but I didn’t feel like trying. I figured if I wasn’t careful they could split the mdf as well. If I used them I was probably going to still use glue too.. The blocking made it very easy to assemble. I was looking at trying to do it without putting in the blocking, but that made it more difficult to get good alignment. The blocking makes it stronger too with more surface area for the glue. The “Another Bartop” build Gray cabinet is assembled with pocket holes and screws, it isn’t mdf though, it is coarser flakeboard with the Gray factory top coat, like Arcade machines were often built from.

I realized that I had not drilled for the speakers in the Marquee bottom board until after I had it installed. I used some Logitech 2 piece speakers for the arcade. Removing them from the shell, they have some 2″ speakers in them. I used a 2″ hole saw to make the holes in the board. I also had to drill for the volume control access. I removed the power Led from the board. While the board also had a Headphone jack on it, I decided it wasn’t practical to do anything with it. I needed a longer knob than the one it came with. Had I not already glued the board in, I may have carved out the back so I could have used a more standard length knob (For the Gray Bartop I 3d printed a customized long knob for it).

I then rewired the speakers for installation in the cabinet. I was going to reuse the original AC power unit so I setup to be able to put it in as well. Below you can see the speakers rewired to fit the cabinet.

These speakers operate off of 5Volts DC. In the end I didn’t like the exposed AC board inside the cabinet. I went with a Meanwell dual voltage power supply for the cabinet. This let me run the Raspberry Pi and the Speakers both off of the 5Volt DC on it. It also provides 12Volts DC, which is for the Fan and the Marquee lights.

The next part was the primer. I used the recommended Rustoleum Filler Primer. This is pretty neat stuff. It has a filler product in the paint. It looks like it is fuzzy, but it sands out amazing.

Don’t skip primer, It just won’t work if you are using MDF. I waited until the next day to sand it. I used 220 grit paper to take off the fuzz. I then followed up with some finer paper. From there I wiped it down with paper towels and brushed it well, then used a microfiber cloth to wipe it down. I painted it with Rustoleum Gloss Black. I let that dry a day and took some 3000 grit to lightly sand any little bits that were in the paint. The paint I used is the 15 minute dry type to help keep the dust, bugs etc from blowing into while it was wet. I found that it was good to do a coat that caught most of the dust that got in it. Then I came back and did 2 more light coats after the 3000 grit. That later paint didn’t end up with as much dust in it. The last thing I did with the paint was put on a coat of Rustoleum Clear Gloss. The Clear Gloss dried very fast, it was quite different and had a lot of over spray. When I was doing the painting I was wearing a mask as well. I was thinking of trying to polish it, but I decided I wasn’t going to be that crazy about it, and I wasn’t sure I had the clear on thick enough. I used 2 cans of primer and about 2 cans of the black. The clear coat was less than a full can. I did end up with some runs on the top back door frame piece. I used one of the spray handles for the cans, as seen in the picture below. That makes it much easier for me to get a decent finish and better control a well as saving my wrist.

Well, there were two other things I didn’t get drilled before the initial assembly. The first being the “safe shutdown button” for the Pi on the back beside the power jack. The other being the USB ports in the front right there.

Here is the safe shutdown hole in the back of the cabinet. I had to back bore it.

I had to backbore the Shutdown button here by the power port due to the type of button I used. The USB on the front “nearly” needed to be backbored as well. The USB port insert I used goes into a 30mm hole it barely has any threading with the 3/4″ MDF, but it was just enough.

The T molding is not too bad to do, but I wish it had went a little better. I got a section of 20′ and used all but about 18′ on this cabinet. There would have been that bit more if I had not put that additional piece on the back side of the Marquee Top. I am assuming I had the full 20′ I was to have received, but I can see how it did use that much. I just did it like Mike showed in his video, back cutting at the corners, and put it in with a rubber mallet. I had a few issues here and there. I had some problem with snagging on the bottom and pulling it back out when moving the cabinet. I added some rubber feet and that should help to prevent it from dragging the edges too much in the future. I put a bit of glue toward the ends to help hold it incase it snags a bit.

Here I have the control panel assembled and the USB ports installed after finishing the Clear Coat. I am using a Dell LCD that I had around. It was almost a perfect fit, and had HDMI input and audio output (no speakers internally). The control panel layout is in the plans as well, the template prints out on multiple pages that get taped together. I used a spray adhesive to hold it on like Mike suggested. It was a bit of a pain to remove all of the adhesive after the fact ( I used a different product than he had, so maybe it is harder to get off?). The paper came off fine, but some of the spray stayed behind. I later used more of the templates in other areas and was careful to use as little spray as I could, that turned out better. I used the 2 player template and omitted 2 buttons, 8 was enough for me. You can choose to use the buttons you want. He also includes a 1 player layout template. The buttons I used are the pop in kind. I used a 30mm forstner bit for the hole with the 6 primary buttons, they went right in a perfect fit. For the Joysticks I used a slightly smaller sized bit, this didn’t cause issues in the travel of the stick. If I had used the 30mm bit, then the joystick washers wouldn’t have kept the holes covered at the maximum travel. For the smaller 24mm buttons I didn’t have the perfect drill bit for, so they were slightly loose, and a little glue on the bottom edge in a couple places to ensure they don’t move on me. The forstner bits do a very nice job, the butterfly bits I have are way too aggressive, but they are a weird type. The butterfly bits may be just fine if you are careful, mine are of a very aggressive verity that have a screw start point on them. I can’t hold them back or take it easy to get them started.. I used the bits in my cheap Harbor Freight Drill Press, which made the work go very nice with the forstner bits.

The one trick with the controls is they need to be wired identically, as the Pi (or any computer) can get confused if it has two of the same model of controllers with different layouts. I previously built a USB arcade joystick, with the same type of controls. I have wired both of the controllers on the Arcade as well as the separate USB arcade joystick the same so I can use it as a third player on the Arcade.

This was the first time I tried it out inside the cabinet. It is all together except the marquee and front plexi on the monitor. You can see the speakers in the top.

Here I worked on the Marquee light. I am using 12Volt White LED Strip light. I decided to build an Aluminum Light Box for it. I really didn’t have a good way to mount the LEDs otherwise, and I didn’t want the light going out other areas of the cabinet. The light box is made of a spare piece of flat stock aluminum used for flashing, boxing/facia, and around windows etc on a house from Lowes etc. I made it about 1″ deep, and rests against the corner blocking, and almost against the speakers.

Here I am using clamps and a board like a break to bend the aluminum. It worked ok.

Here is the box. It was neater but I had it slight long and had to compress the ends down a bit.

Above you can see the LED Strip. I put it on the Sides not the bottom. This helps with Hotspots. In such a close space the points of light off of the LEDs would make hotspots all of the Marquee otherwise. Below you can also see the Speaker grills and volume knob installed. The Speaker grills are made from some 2″ desk grommets from the hardware store, and then covered in some speaker cloth (salvaged from an old speaker box I had).

Above you can see the back door. The door was slightly taller than it should have been, possibly a little wave and variation in my cuts for the back. The bigger thing was the that it turned out to be somewhat narrow, I am not sure if was my marking or cutting or what. The door Frame pieces seemed to all go just fine, but there is a bit more gap left and right. So I would watch for that if I make another. I wasn’t going to use a piano hinge for it, but due to the gap that was the only way I was going to be able to hide it well. I also decided to get a lock, not that I wanted to lock it, but that was the most elegant looking latching method, and also when moving I didn’t want a “semi-secure” latch that may flip open accidentally. The holes were drilled with other templates in the plans. The bottom is the 80mm fan pattern while the top two are the hole patterns for the suggested speakers. I used the speaker pattern holes just for additional venting on the door though. Here you can also see the door once it was installed with the 80mm fan 12Volt and latch assembly. The modification to the door frame top that I mentioned above did have the added benefit of adding some ventilation as well as there is a small gap there now. I like that bit of the change, as heat would have caught in the top had it been sealed up. You can also see the wiring going to the power strip I put in there. It is wired directly to the rear power jack. I had it around and it was easy to work with. I really did not want to get an electrical box like the plans suggested. This was a bit easier and I think did a nice job. It also has the added benefit that in my case it is a surge protector and not just a temporary “power tap” as well, not just a power strip.

The power jack includes a switch and fuse. I like it, but some have had it has issues with melting. I could see that if the connections were a bit loose, that would cause the conductors to get hot. The Safe Shutdown button for the Pi is also installed there. The button is wired up to the gpio on the Pi and the Pi is setup to use do a safe shutdown if it is pressed. It will wake the Pi after shutdown if pressed again. I will cover that in Part 2, it is quite easy with the Pi 3 (and pi4b).

The Marquee just has some paper in it behind the Plexiglass to test the brightness.

I have to finish the Marquee. I am also going to put Plexiglas in front of the monitor to hide it. Once I have the Plexiglas cut for the front of the monitor I will be able to mount the monitor in the cabinet. The Monitor I have does not have a VESA mount, so I have secured it to a built up block that I will secure with some brackets to the bottom of the cabinet. I don’t know the exact final position until the Plexiglas is in. The Marquee top needs secured as well, but I have to finish the Marquee first. The Pi is also floating free in there. I have been thinking of pulling it out of the case and mounting to the cabinet as a bare board, but I do want to put a fan on it still if I do that. To start with the Marquee I will probably finish a design for it and reprint it on my inkjet printer instead for some color. I may get proper marquee made professionally later on.. I may get some side graphics for the cabinet as well, but not full side covering graphics (not after the T molding is installed).

Commodore 64 Breadbin #2 Referb : 326298 Part 1

I picked up another Commodore 64 breadbin model. It had a rough time in storage from the looks of it. The system has been in a damp dirty storage area, there were several of them being sold by the same person, in similar conditions along with some other old 80s era computers like Apple ii systems. I guess they were stored in a basement somewhere that had some real water/moisture problems.

As you can see from the outside it is a bit dirty, and some keys were missing. This was I think the second best looking of the batch. Below you can see the inside, the paper shield was a mess, black mildew along the bottom. A good bit of dirt inside. After seeing it in the bag, I decided I wasn’t even opening it inside. So I took it out back and opened it there. I removed the cardboard shield and it went strait to the trash can. The case was then hosed down to get the worst of the dirt off. I wiped the keyboard down a bit and the board before taking them in. The case parts went it the tub and got a really good scrubbing.

I removed the RF Shield and cleaned the board with some 91% IPA. It turns out to be a bit of an interesting board. Yes the screws are mostly rusty, the RF Shield and Cartridge port plate tells a tale of too much water too. On close inspection the board looks ok for the most part, the legs of some of the components are rusted, I clipped a them and the tips just fell off. This board has obviously been worked on in the past. The inner cardboard sheet that was above the bottom RF Shield went strait to the trash, it was about as awful as the upper cardboard shield.. I kind of like this brass looking shield, but without the cardboard to go with it, I won’t be reinstalling it. I don’t care enough to make a new cardboard piece.

You may notice the wires in the above picture. This is a 326298 Rev A board. An early board that only has the 5 Pin Video port. This board was built in 82 based on the unsocketed chips. The board had extensive work done to it. All of the main chips are socketed. They are all dated second half of 84. The 5 Pin Video port was replaced with the later 8 Pin Video port. There are two wires running off from that port, and various cut traces on the top and bottom to separate out the additional pins. I think in the VIC II area there were possibly some other changes. The VIC II area cage was (and still is) rather rusted as well as the RF modulator top plate, and the RF RCA Port was all rusted.

So after the ipa bath I hooked up the board.

It worked, no issues. Next I tested the keyboard, it worked, minus the two broken keys. Some keys were not very responsive though. I did a full teardown of the keyboard to clean it properly.

I first removed all of the keycaps with my keycap puller. I recommend one, they are rather cheap and good insurance to prevent breaking the old plastic. I next desoldered the wires on the ShiftLock key. I had removed the tape from around the keyboard, as you can see, to get to the screws under it. After removing the screws the board lifts off, and you can see the plungers then.

I took out the plungers and put them to the side, then took the keyboard frame and sent it to the tub and some warm very soapy water. I also soaked the keys in the soapy water. Then scrubbed the keyboard and keycaps with a toothbrush and rinsed them well and dried them. I also took the springs which were dirty and some were rather rusty. I put the springs into some White Vinegar. The Vinegar removes the rust, it does make the metal a bit dull looking. I expect if you leave them in too long you may break down the metal too, so I kept checking on them. They cleaned up well, the worst of them you could tell were actually pitted but were still in working order. I then washed the vinegar off with some water and dried the spring as best I could. I placed all of that on a towel to dry properly.

While that was drying, I took some IPA on a qtip and lightly wiped the contacts on the circut board. We don’t want to remove the conductive coating. If you clean too much of it off they keys won’t work. Next I took the plungers, and wiped the shaft part with a damp cloth to get any dirt off, I didn’t wipe the contacts on the plungers, they looked pretty good. They were mostly clean overall due to being covered by the keycaps and in the keyboard frame holes.

All of the good plungers and two broken ones.

Well, I had watched Perifractic’s Lego 64 videos, and I got an idea to try on the broken plungers. They did still work, as I had tested the keyboard with them, they just won’t hold a key now.

So I found a Lego laying around. You see the full piece I started with there in the lower left. I cut it in half, cleaned the plunger up and fited it to it. I shaved it down to go into the plunger shaft a little for more surface area and strength. Then I glued it in with a combination of Bondic and Super Glue gel. I did have to file down the Lego piece, it was too large and the Commodore Key cap wouldn’t go on it. I used my small Diamond Grit Needle Files from Harbor Freight (they are just small files, I got the Diamond Grit ones, they seemed to work well for me on plastics). I will say that the glue doesn’t hold well, these tops will come off. So it isn’t a great fix, but I think it will work. I am still waiting on replacement Plungers and springs for the keyboard. I put the one plunger back at the British Pound symbol location, but I put the other at another key that is less likely to see much use. The 8 key gets a lot of use.

Here is the keyboard frame after reassembly.

Here is the keyboard back together back in the cleaned upper case. I tested it and it all works. The * key doesn’t work very well though.. When I get the new plungers in, I will probably remove the circuit board again and check that key. I don’t know if it it is the plunger, or dirt, or the contacts on the circuit board. Other than that and the missing caps, the keyboard was quite responsive, better than my other C64. That one I did not remove the board to clean the contacts. Removing to swap the plunger and check that key isn’t too bad. I will only have to desolder the ShiftLock key and remove the screws. The plungers that I am not working with will all stay as long as the keycaps are still on the keys can’t come out.

I does look much better than it did, but it is very streaked. The Power LED plate was actually corroded to the point much of the paint was lifted and flaking off. Corroded Aluminium.. Ya, I guess a good bit of moisture for a long period of time. I plan to get a replacement Badge and maybe a matching Power LED plate, I just don’t know what I want to go with.

Next I started on some preventative maintenance as well as rust removal. I had already removed the rusty tops of the VIC II area and the Modulator top cover. I then desoldered the Cartridge Plate and the VIC II cage which is rather rusty. I did alot of cleanup on the RF Modulator cover and Cartridge plate. A combination of wire brushes, sanding, and polishing with the Dremel etc. To remove the stickers easily, I put a little WD40 on them and let it sit. When I was done they were pretty decent. I tried some Vinegar on the RF Modulator cover, but that removes the protective coating that was still on some areas of it, so I stopped that. I did soak all of the rusty screws (basically every screw in this thing) in the Vinegar to get the rust off. I also removed the Fuse holder pieces, and fuse, they were quite corroded. I placed them into the Vinegar as well (well not the fuse). The Vinegar did clean the corrosion pretty well off the Fuse holder, but it left those areas black, I then polished them back to a shiny surface before reinstalling them. When all the rust was off of the screws and Cartridge plate and RF Modulator cover, I put some “Teflon Non-Stick Dry-Film Lubricant” on them. Not to Lubricate them so much, but to put a protective film on them to help prevent them rusting again. I did the same with the keyboard springs after they were dry. I don’t use the stuff on plastics though it puts a white film on that is hard to remove. So I put it on before putting them in place.

I resoldered the Cartridge Plate back to the board. I also touched up some solder points on the board. The VIC II cage will not be going back in. I think the VIC will stay cooler without it, and with a proper heatsink installed.

Here is the board reinstalled after cleaning up the rusty bits.

The board was tested again and still worked. So next I installed a few heatsinks.

The 5 Volt Regulator doesn’t have much of a heatsink on it. The Rivet is loose and the heatsink is spinning around. So I decided to remove it and fix that as best I could. I took the heatsink off of it. I placed it on a new 2 Amp capable 5 Volt Regulator, it wasn’t needed, but that is what I keep around. I was a concerned that with the age and heat that Regulator dealt with over the years plus that loose tiny heatsink that it really should be replaced before it fails. When these regulators fail they most often fail open, meaning they will push the full voltage through them instead of dropping it or cutting off the voltage completely.. That fries the ics in the board. I have not heard of them failing inside the C64, while they are the big issue inside the C64 power supplies. With that very tiny heatsink, which was also not making good thermal connection to the regulator I didn’t want to take a chance on it. This time I put a second folded back heatsink behind it with thermal compound between the heatsinks as well as on the back of the regulator and bolted it all together.

This change to the Heatsink is an improvement, I guess. Still it seems very inadequate and gets very very hot.

As far as the case repairs go, I guess I didn’t take any pictures to show that specifically. The top of the case is cracked in the front right corner, it appeared to have taken a hit to that corner. It also has 2 cracks in some of the screw supports. I used my solder iron on a lower temp to melt the inside of the crack in the corner of the case together again. Then I put some liquid Testors Model glue in from the back to smooth it out. That did start to melt the plastic, I removed the excess glue. I have found that if you use that stuff and it melts the plastic and there is too much excess glue the plastic won’t harden again. The one standoff in the top of the care there is cracked as well, I haven’t fixed that yet, I think maybe from the same trauma that cracked the top. Three of the standoffs that hold the keyboard in place were sheared off as well. Those I glue back on with superglue gel. I then clamped them for a day and left it sit. That will give me the best strength, they shouldn’t be stressed while it is curing, which is 24 hours to get to full strength per the manufactures directions that is. The clamping ensures they are down properly and the joint is thin and tight too. After that I put some Bondic glue around them, the Bondic won’t cure in the crack because it needs UV Light to cure. I have also found it doesn’t bond very well compared to Super Glue. It does retain some flexibility and have some hold, I find that can assist Super Glue because it holds so tight, but doesn’t flex and fractures.

This case is badly discolored and I don’t want to try to retrobright it. I picked up some Krylon Fusion All-In-One Paint+Primer “Matte River Rock” paint awhile back to potentially paint a 1541 case. The case had some small chips out of the bottom. I took some Tamiya Putty “white” and filled in and built up the missing areas. It is a potent thin putty that dries quickly, and sands well for me. I it seems to bond to the case plastic well (As the model glue fuses the plastic, so I would expect the model putty to grip it well too). When I was done with the physical repairs to the bottom portion of the case, I put a even coat of the Matte River Rock paint on it. It turned out well. After the paint dried I found a crack show in the center of the half circle of the video port in the middle of the case. I glued that with the Testors Liquid model glue, I hope it holds well. Later I will put on some epoxy to help give that crack a little more support (I should have used Epoxy on the keyboard plungers instead) . I think once the board is reinstalled it will have more support where that crack is as well.

I haven’t done anything to the top of the case so far except weld and glue the one crack. The one case clip on it is broken off and lost. There are also 2 screws posts in the top that are cracked. I have thought about getting one of Birt’s “Hey Birt!” case saver kits to get a new case clip, I could use one of the reinforcement pieces on the cracked stand off, and have spares for the future. As I have to fix that case clip, I don’t want to paint the case yet, I will likely scratch up the paint having it upside down for those repairs. I will put several coats on the case. I want to test the paint on something with a Matt Finish clear over it. Some paints don’t mix well, and can cause the lower paint to lift or got to a crackle like finish. I have found that even with paints from the same company.. So I will test the Krylon Matt Finish first on a scrap of similar plastic (probably a modern computer case bezel). I want to put the clear over it, even though I like the existing Matt Finish of the paint as it should help protect it better.

So for now that is about it for this C64. In the future I will be doing more to it. The remaining repairs to the case. That include the Clip and post repair as well as painting and installing a new Badge plate. Checking out the * key, as well as installing the replacement keys and springs. I also have a capacitor replacement kit for it. With the 84 Breadbin I already worked on, I had found some capacitors that showed evidence of failing, so I figure this one is going to be served well by replacing them. I do wonder if that, especially the ones in the RF Modulator, may make a difference in the video output. I may or may not install some additional heatsinks. The computer is working fine, but it does have bad jailbars, so I may do something with that too at some point. I don’t know of removing the modulator and building up a replacement would help that or not.

I would love to know where the other Breadbins that were sold with this ended up and see that they were properly cared for. There was a very interesting VIC that I would have loved to see, but I wasn’t paying that kind of cash for a VIC let alone one that looked like it spent a few years sitting in water.

Pi1541 in 1541 Case & Tapuino – Part 2 (Board Etching and Build)

Lets see what was left after the last post. There were quite a few changes to the board layout. I found several defects in the circuit diagram I had made.

There were corrections for the Pi1541 section, in that I had connected up one of the signals that I shouldn’t have. The removal of that bit made the design a bit simpler actually.

For the Tapuino side I had several missing connections. So the layout below is not the exact same layout seen below here. This one below is the corrected revision with a few additions as well.

Gerber Files for the board can be downloaded from here:

https://github.com/Markeno76/CommodorePiTap

Here is the design minus the Ground connections.

I built the Pi1541 section based on the Option B design, but with the additional signals wired in that were listed but not wired. That is why I have the second level shifter on the board. I sort of think of it as an Option B+ design, there are some others out there, but most are just plain Option B. It didn’t matter originally, but for some of the new features he has been working on, the additional signals are needed. The problem though was that the oAtn or OUT_ATN should not be wired up as it will never be used, so I had to remove that and I had to do some modifications to my prototype board below. I also added the Buzzer for the Pi1541 to the board design. The next changes were the missing connections to the 4052N on the Tapuino section. I was missing 4 lines going to the IC, two being ground and two to the ATMEGA pins. Some other additions are Read and Write LED Indicators to the Tapuino.

The board I etched was no the above design, to correct my prototype board, I had to cut the lines to the oAtn, removed the wire from the pin on the Pi for as well. I have added wires for the missing traces to the ATMEGA from the 4052 and grounded the other two pins. My buzzer is on the Pi header not the board, and I don’t have the additional Tapuino LEDs.

The images of the board below are the board made with the previous design. That is why it won’t look exactly the same. Some pictures show the corrections and some show how it was originally assembled.

First let us start of with the Toner Transfer process. To do a toner Transfer you need a piece of glossy paper. I initially purchased some Toner Transfer Paper, it was rather pricey for all the more use I get out of it. With Eagle I can not find how to “tile” my printout, so I am using a full sheet for any tiny board.. I found you can use magazine pages, so I tried that. It has worked out pretty well actually, although The first run didn’t. This is a more complex board, it is double sided, and it really is not easy to line it up properly. To do so, I printed out both sides. The top mirrored and the bottom not mirrored (as the bottom is printed mirrored already). I then lay them on top of one another and with light behind them I get them aligned. I then cut the sheets down. This gives me some registration of the alignment. I double and triple check alignment. I tape the two sheets together on two opposite edges with clear tape. I do not want the tape to overlap onto the circuit board material, so I had around a inch boarder around the board printout. If the tape overlaps the design it can make it not transfer properly. We need no assistance in having a failed transfer, that is easy enough to get without additional help.

That being said here is how my first try went.

My next attempt went much better.

With that transfer I just had to touch up some places with a sharpie in the ground plane areas. It was not easy to etch though. It took quite a few passes and pulling the board out as the toner ended up starting to lift in a number of areas. I don’t know if it was my toner (I think it is at least partly the aftermarket cheap toner), or the extended time it was taking in the etching solution for me. I was just using peroxide, vinegar and salt. It was taking a long time. I don’t have anything stronger here, but due to the time it took, I may try to pickup something else in the future.

Below is the completed board after etching compared to my printout samples. There is one bad short, I don’t know why it did that there. There are some areas that were a bit close. The transfer process is to put the board between the printouts, and use heat and pressure to transfer the toner from the magazine paper to the copper. The copper must be very clean and not tarnished. I sanded it with fine sandpaper, then cleaned it with some rubbing alcohol. You want “enough” heat but not too much, too much and the toner melts and deforms, to little and it doesn’t transfer. Too little pressure and it won’t transfer, it seems the more pressure the better. I use a small iron that I can put a lot of pressure on, but I don’t find it easy to do. Once the transfer is done (or you think it is), then put the board into some water. The magazine paper will break down and come off leaving the toner on the board (if it worked). Carefully wipe it off to get that white paper haze off of the surface. Then put the board into the etching solution. (I have some examples and details of the process on my Commodore Computer Saver post, which is a more recent post here.)

I was extremely happy to find out my alignment was nearly perfect. It etched well, although it took forever. This is the second board design I have etched, and only the third board. The first being an adapter board that was extremely simple. The other design I did, I had the traces closer together with less empty gap. The wider gap I had here between traces made it much easier to solder up as there is no solder mask present.

The next step was to drill all of the holes. That took awhile. It required some very small drill bits. I had picked up a set of very small bits from Harbor Freight last year for very little cost. They turned out to be perfect for the job. The only problem is it would have been forever with my pin vise drill. I went to the drill press (from Harbor Freight as well), and well it couldn’t hold bits this small. Well my pin vise drill is metal, and round if I take the bottom piece off. I carefully installed it into the drill press chuck. I tightened it just enough to hold it and left the other bit holding part inside the shaft of the pin vise to make it stronger.

I then went ahead and drilled out all of the holes. The smallest being the holes for the resistors and capacitors. The last board I did, I drilled some of the holes a bit large, that made it hard to get the leads to solder in with too much gap around them. This time I went with the closest size bit I could. That ended up being about 3 primary sizes, the smallest for the resistors and capacitors, then one for the Dip sockets and finally the pin header and other connectors. With a few larger ones for the mounting points on the PS/2 style socket and board mounting holes.

With this being a double sided board, and no plated through holes I had to pay special attention to assembly. I used Machined DIP Sockets for the ICs, as the top side of the pins can be accessed with them tight to the board, and some of the connections are only on the top of the board. I didn’t have a Machined socket for the ATMEGA, so I used machined strip headers for it taking care to make sure they were standing up strait. I did not assemble this board in the order I would if it had been a manufactured board with proper through holes. Normally I would put in the short stuff first, then the taller stuff later and the tall connectors last. I couldn’t do that, and get to the areas I needed to on the top side.

Dry fit on the left, soldered on the right. Because of the non plated through holes, you see a bit of solder on the top side where I had to solder to the top side. The Pins for the Level Shifters (and the other header pins) were soldered by sliding up the plastic bits to get to where I needed top side soldering. I then slid the plastic back down the pins. The Level Shifters were then soldered on from above.

As I mentioned above there were some changes to the board after I etched it. The above image shows it as it was made initially. Below here is the revised board with the corrections. The removal of one resistor in the Pi1541 area, I also removed the one header by the Serial port due to there having been a short under it I had to remove. I didn’t need that header in there for my exact use. That header would be used if you wanted to put in a Second Serial port like the real 1541 has instead of the PS/2 type port I am using for my 7″ LCD interface. The same header coming off the PS/2 port wires to the removed header above the Serial port to enable it in that case. The cutting of one trace in the Pi1541 area by that resistor on the bottom side of the board. The additional two wires for the Tapuino between the ATMEGA and the 4052, as well as the added. Ground pins connected up to it. Again the below changes don’t need made to the “newest” design. These modifications are due to the earlier defective design I etched this prototype from. If you compare them there are quite a few changes between it and the revised design at the top of this post. This is how the board is in my drive now though. I have the Pi Buzzer for the Pi1541 directly on the GPIO of the Pi. I don’t have the Read and Write Status LEDs for the Tapuino, although I am thinking of adding them. It is worth noting that the pinout for the header that is going over to the Pi’s GPIO is different on this earlier board than the revised board. The changes were to move the Buzzer to the board, but also I swapped the positions of two of the signals to simplify the traces going to the Serial port.

The Silver “Stripe” marks on the top of the board are marks for Pin 1 of the various Headers.

Here I have the board installed into the chassis.

You may wonder about the Black Oval thing in the middle on the right, that is a Ground Loop noise isolator. It is between the Pi’s Audio Jack and the Audio Jack of the Little audio amp at the bottom of the case there. Without it, there is a buzz. I have used a couple of these things now for that kind of isolation. I believe they are essentially a transformer inside, so there is no direct electrical connection between the grounds.

I had mentioned in the last post that there was an issue with the Meanwell power supply needing a 200mA minimum load on the 12Volt rail. My solution to that problem was to install two 100mA rated fans. The one I put on by the little audio amp. The ic on it gets warm at higher volume levels, so I figured it was a good idea. The other fan I put on the top of the case by the Pi to cool it. The fans make very little noise and provide enough load to the power supply to be happy even with the Audio Amp off, which also runs on 12Volts. I don’t believe the fans are are really pulling 100mA, but they are close enough that everything is working well.

Yes the Pi1541 is working.

Here are some shots of the exterior of the Pi1541/Tapuino unit.

The Tapuino section is also working as well. Originally though, I couldn’t get the Tapuino to work with the 4052 installed. So I bypassed the 4052 with some jumpers into the IC socket and I was using it that way for awhile. The 4052 is not needed unless you want to be able to duplicate from another device into it. I put it in the design to have it “complete”. It lets you connect up either a physical Cassette and dub off of it, or another Tapuino (why?). To use it, there is the unused red header there in the Tapuino section that would go to the other device. I eventually came to the conclusion that the likely fault was the specific 4052 IC I was using. I was trying to use some 74HTC4052N ics, and they just wouldn’t work. I ended up ordering some 74HC4052N ics, and those worked perfectly. I try to be careful when ordering in ics, and the fact there are so many similar models it just doesn’t always work out. I don’t know what the difference is in the HTC that it won’t work in the place of the HC chips for this use. For the old 8bit stuff usually you use LS stuff, but these don’t come in LS. If you don’t want to duplicate tapes to the Tapuino, then you really only need to bypass the 4052 with two jumpers, you could even leave out the IC socket and jumper on the board.

I would like to post the board design in some way that it can be downloaded by others that may want to try to use it. I don’t know about making Gerber files though, I could post the Eagle files somewhere and then someone could do Gerber files themselves. Eagle is free for these small designs.

Referbishing a Commodore 64 326298 Rev A 1982(FAB 326295 Rev D)

I picked up another Commodore 64 quite cheaply. This poor system had been stored in some bad conditions. I am not sure the conditions, but it had been wet at one point at least and damp quite a lot. When it was put there, it was probably pretty rough looking as far a browning of the plastic. This was an early Commodore 64 from 82 originally. Oddly the serial number label had no serial number printed on it. I have seen some labels that ink can be removed from by some cleaners, so I don’t know if it had been wiped off or never had a number.

Internally it as all there. The old paper foil shield was dirty and had mold on it. There was dirt and dead bugs all inside it. The first thing I did was pull the paper shield and toss it out, I then pulled the keyboard and mainboard out. Next I hosed the worst of the dirt and bugs out of the case with a hose.

Next I removed the bottom shield from the mainboard. It showed quite a bit of corrosion on it.

Before I tried to fire the board up, I did a bit of cleanup on the board itself. Then I looked it over to see if anything needed addressed before trying to power it on. I first checked that the power switch was making good contact. I then checked the Fuse was good. I also pushed all of the socketed chips in to make sure they were tight.

Looking over the board it was dated as 1982. There are some odd things about this board, it has had all the main chips socketed (all “wide” chips). The main chips are also all dated 1984. Three of the ram chips have been replaced and are also dated 1984. The remaining chips are all from 1982.

Here you see all t he main socketed chips. CIAs, the 3 Roms, the CPU, SID, PLA and VIC II from 1984

The next odd thing about this board is that it has a 8 Pin Video Socket instead of the 5 Pin Video Socket that was originally on it. julrod over at Lemon 64 said he had heard that Commodore service centers had upgraded the 326298 boards with 8 Pin Video Sockets. I have yet to test if the 8 Pin socket includes the added Chroma signal for S Video like video output (It does work and it works very well). Looking around the 8 Pin Video socket I saw 4 cut traces (some on the bottom some on the top) around it and there are two wires on the bottom side leading off to points on the board.

Here are the two wires off of the Video Socket, you can see some of the cut traces too.

I connected the cleaned up board to a display and my power supply. It actually came up to the normal startup screen showing all of the memory. The video was noticeably poor compared to my other later Commodore (a 1984 model). It has bad Jail Bars on the screen for one. I then connected up my full test harness an test cartridge. The board passed all of the tests. I fired it up with my Pi1541 and started up a game.

The next day I spent doing a lot more cleaning of the computer. The case was cleaned with some CLR Mold and Mildew cleaner, a brush and a toothbrush. It still looks bad due to the lack of the badge, the bad browning of the plastic. The plastic is streaked oddly in the browning as it isn’t very uniform. The top has a crack on the right front corner. Three of the mainboard mounts are sheared off. The narrow right tab is missing that holds the back on. Two keys are missing and the posts are broken on the keyboard. The keyboard worked, but it wasn’t very responsive. It is quite dirty as well of course.

Most of the screws are rusty. Some of them are very badly rusted, anything in the “front edge, including the case screws. I put them into some vinegar. After soaking in it for awhile, the rust was removed from them. It left them looking a bit different, but they were in much better shape. I also did the same with the keyboard springs.

I removed the cage around the VIC II area. It was quite rusted, and I don’t like them anyways, as it makes it hard to get to the parts inside. It may be a decent heatsink for the VIC II though, I replaced it with a real heatsink though. The computer has a factory mistake where R10 by the VIC is 300 Ohms where it should be 120 Ohms. Ray Carlsen recommended putting in a 220 Ohm resistor in parallel across the existing R10 to bring the resistance to what it was supposed to be. This corrects the resistor in at R10 brings the strength of the Composite Video output to what it should be.

Here you can see the new Blue 220 Ohm resistor stacked on the original R10 just to the right of the VIC II

Here is the keyboard disassembly.

I lightly cleaned the keyboard pcb with some IPA. Once it was put together again, it did seem like it was more responsive. I haven’t tested it fully though. Keep in mind that too much cleaning of the contacts will rub the carbon off and they won’t work properly.

For the keyboard I turned to a little inspiration from Perifractic at Youtube. I had to tear down the whole keyboard to clean it properly. It also wasn’t making good contact on some keys, so I decided I would clean the pcb on it. I don’t have spare keys, or posts. I decided I would try repairing the broken keyboard posts with some pieces of Lego Cross posts. It does look like it may work, I don’t know for how long though. The one key the “pound” key is one that I doubt I will end up using, so having a repaired post there shouldn’t be a big deal. The other key was the 8 key so I decided to move that post to another position where it will get less use. To do this was a combination of a drill bit, using a Dremmel, and Xacto knife. While the Lego Cross axel looks like the key post top, the problem here though is that it is just a bit too large. A Lego piece that accepts the Cross Axle will go on a Commodore Post, but a Commodore Key won’t got on the Lego Axle. I don’t know if some of the Lego Axles are a little different or what though the ones I had wouldn’t work with the keys properly. I ended up using a small file to file them down to a more fitting size. I found that superglue won’t get a great bond on Legos, Bondic doesn’t either. I did try some model glue, which was said to be able to fuse Lego pieces. I don’t know how well it is holding. I may eventually replace the damaged posts, but for now they are hopefully ok. I still need to get 2 springs and two keys.

I reassembled the keyboard with the repaired posts.

I also took the top off of the Modulator and cleaned and polished it up. The plate on the Cartridge Port had some bad rust on it as well. I desoldered it from the board so that i could get it properly cleaned up. They both turned out to be a good improvement. I was going to paint these pieces but decided not to. Instead I put some teflon liquid to try to protect them from rusting quickly. I also used it on the screws. It puts a bit of a coating on stuff and is used to protect tools from rusting as well. The other part/parts I pulled to clean up were the two parts of the Fuse Holder. They were badly corroded. I desoldered them and polished them.

The board now looks quite a bit better. I also installed heatsinks on the VIC II, SID, PLA, and CPU.

The conditions left the metal plate around the power LED corroding and the paint lifting off. I ended up cleaning it as best I could. I have to figure out what to do with it for painting etc. The main case badge was missing, and from the condition of the browning of the plastic , it must have been missing for a good while.

In an effort to get the old case looking a little better, I scrubbed the case with a paste of Baking Soda to get some of the marks off of the plastic. It did get rid of some of them. The plastic is still streaked brown.

For the crack in the right front corner on the top, I melted the plastic from the inside with my solder iron set to a lower temperature. This held the part in place, but for the crack on the outside, I used some model glue, that seems to have fused the plastic there pretty well. I also put a little on the inside to even out the melted plastic. Be careful about getting too much of that stuff on the plastic, it will dissolve it making it soft. It may not harden properly again if that happens.

Some of the pins in the components were rusted, and rusted badly on the bottom side. So I thought I would just clip them closer to the board. When I clipped at least two of these they just came right off. They were rust clear to the solder. I don’t think they were rusted below the solder. I tried to remove as much rust as I could. The presence of rust encourages the formation of more rust unless I am mistaken in what I have heard.

So far restoring this old beat up 64 has mostly been a lot of cleaning and some physical repairs. I did do the R10 fix. I still have more to do with it, and I am not sure when I will find the proper replacement keys. I was thinking of just ordering any key to put on the keyboard so I have a full keyboard, but I am not sure yet. I will probably recap the board. I have to fix those 3 board mounting standoffs that are broken off. I may fix the broken case tab on the right as well. The heatsink on the 5 Volt regulator is a bit loose, so it won’t be making the greatest thermal transfer to it. I will see about fixing that up before using the computer too much as well.

I am looking at the options for replacing the case badge. I also plan to paint this case and not to try and retrobright it or anything like that. The letters on the keyboard keys are also yellowed. On the left side it isn’t too bad, but as you go across the keyboard it gets quite bad. This computer will never be the best show piece. I think I like it though for the 8 Pin Video on the early board, and the main chips being socketed. I could easily use this board to test most of the typical breadbin primary chips. Being is such poor physical shape gives me a bit of freedom as this case will never be “like new” again, I can do what I want and not have to feel like I am harming it. It is a bit unique and it will remain so. I didn’t check the Chroma output on that 8 Pin video port yet, but I will get around to that probably later this week.

Once I was done cleaning it up, and I finally put the keyboard back together I fired it up again to try out a game again. I “think” it looks a little better onscreen. It still has noticeably worse jail bars than my other Commodore 64. I am only using it on my little 7″ composite display so I don’t know how bad for sure until I put it on a bigger display.

As I make progress on the restoration of this Commodore 64 I will probably do a followup post on it.

Pi1541 in 1541 Case & More (Bare Tapuino, Audio & Composite LCD power) – Part 1

Gerber Files for the board can be downloaded from here:

https://github.com/Markeno76/CommodorePiTap

I am looking to put a Pi1541 in a spare 1541 case I have. It seems a bit roomy for such a thing. So I am looking to put some additional items into it.

I plan on putting in a Tapuino (Bare Tapuino). The controls for the Pi1541 and the Tapuino will be installed into the 5.25″ drive plate.

I also have a 7″ LCD TFT display, commonly used for Backup Cameras in cars I guess. I have shown it in my other blog posts here when testing the C64. The LCD runs off a 12Volt supply, it typically shows that it is drawing around 250mA of current at 12Volts. I have picked up a MeanWell dual voltage power supply. It has 2 inputs, so I will be wiring it to the Pi as one input and to an external port to have it connect to the C64 etc if I like. The harness that it came with has a PS/2 type connector, so I will put a pass through in the 1541 case to allow easy disconnect.

I am looking to also put in a small mono audio amp with control on the 5.25″ plate as well. The amp will have an input in the back of the case to accept input from the C64/128 etc. It also has a switch to get the audio from the Pi instead, I don’t recommend flipping the switch with the C64 connected and powered up though. Also the C64 etc should always be OFF when plugging or unplugging it, as well as the device it is plugging into for safety.

Power will be handled by an internal MeanWell supply or two, using the original power connections and switch off of the back of the 1541.

I am mounting the Pi above the power switch with the USB and Network port accessible. I also want to make the HDMI accessible too. The Pi’s card slot will be extended to the front of the 5.25″ plate to aid in swapping the cards.

I figure if the Pi’s ports are accessible, and the card slot. I can easily swap the card and run other things on the Pi. That is if the gpio connections wouldn’t cause a problem.

I am going to design a board for the main Pi1541 circuitry as well as the Bare Tapuino and LCD connection. I am not sure of my ability to make the board myself. I was originally going to go with a single sided design, but it ended up getting more complex. While I possibly could have still done it with a fair number of jumper wires on the other side, I think it would have just been to messy for my taste. If I can’t make the board, I may look at ordering one from one of the pcb manufacturers.

Here is the first mockup of the front Panel. The Pi1541 and audio volume control for the audio amp is on the left, with the Tapuino controls on the right side. This was before I started cutting the mesh panel for the controls.

Here is the panel after I got it all cut out. I did put fresh coat of black paint on it. It wasn’t the most fun to get correct. The LED holes are slightly off, and I have adjusted the leads on the LEDs to shift them a little. The buttons seem to work well, and the LCDs are fine. The holes were done with my cheap Harbor Freight Drill press. The LCD and SD Slot openings were done with the Dremmel and a cut off wheel mostly.

The Tapuino is based on the Tapuino design that has the option to do tape copies with another cassette or cassette emulator. My unit won’t have that connected up, but I figured the design should have it. I couldn’t find the 1.7? schematics that include addtional status LEDs as well as a buzzer/speaker. I am not sure I want the buzzer, although it was neat idea I guess, and I don’t need the status LEDs, I have the LCD which shows the status fine.

I am building the Tapuino with a bare ATMega instead of using an Arduino Nano or Pro Mini or such. I have partially built up the Tapuino on an Uno, and on the Bareduino for some testing. I should really finish building it up on a breadboard to verify it actually works before etching the board though.

Here is one of the latest designs for the board printed out for fit testing. You can see the MeanWell supply there at the top left. I did mount the supply close to where it is sitting, but I did turn it to get acess to the ports, and also have metal to get it properly screwed into. The Raspberry Pi is mounted there to the left. I used some M2.5 salvaged screws and a metal plate. I used salvaged heavy wire insulation as custom height standoffs for the Pi. The screws pass through them tightly and it keeps the board from getting down on the metal plate below. The plate is mounted to the holes where the regulator heatsink had been mounted to the frame. That lets the Pi get good ventilation as well being at the vents. I retained the original power jack, switch and fuse and run that into the MeanWell supply. When I did the mockup fitting I found the design (laying there to the left of the case) that I had was over too far. I squeezed it down a little. While it cleared the Pi pretty well, it would have interfered with my SD Card extension. You can see the little bit of of white strip there going under the fake circuit board. It is also that wider white flat cable going up past he power supply. The latest change to the board is I have extended it and put the mark in for the third screw in the upper corner.

Here is where I started putting in the openings for the port on the Pi. I started by drilling the holes near the corners. After that I largely used the Dremel to open the bulk of the holes. For the finer fitting I used a fresh Xacto knife and some small hand files.

I was very happy that I was able to leave the posts between the ports and that I didn’t have to open them up with gaps between them. So here is the side of the case with the Pi in it when I was basically finished with it. There you see the Network card and USB ports opened into it.

I have mounted a HDMI extender as well, that is in the lower portion of the case.

Here is the front panel installed and the Pi1541 powering up. I have the audio amp off, and the Tapuino isn’t present inside. Also the Tapuino is powered by the C64 Cassette port anyways.

Here is the additional rear port for the Tapuino. It is a 6pin Din to a C64 Cassette edge connector connector. The cable is an old Cat5 Stranded wire cable which is very flexible and actually nicely durable. The shell on the Edge Connector is a DB15 shell that I had to work the holes a bit to get aligned well enough to get screwed in.

Here is the current state of the back of the case. The left RCA port is the Video IN for AV2 on the LCD Monitor output. The red jack is the Audio in for the internal speakers, with the switch beside it to switch between that jack and the Pi for Audio. The Pi Audio is mixed with some 470Ohm resistors to prevent damage to the Pi as I am mixing the Stereo inputs down to Mono on it. The wire there in the one old Serial port hole is the PS/2 like connection for the LCD Monitor. I am using a temporary cable I made up for that until the board is etched though. The last thing I am thinking to add is a Reset button for the Pi. I didn’t put one on the front, for one there is not much space, and I don’t want to accidentally hit it.

The Pi is intended to have the card swapped and be used for other things. So for other setups I plan to take and setup one of the front buttons as a Safe Shutdown button. Then the Reset button on the back would be the power on button to wake it from that state.

Here is another shot of the monitor on the Pi1541 powered up.

Without the custom board, the Pi1541 isn’t complete and the Tapuino doesn’t exist except the control panel though. So here is the internal as it is setup awaiting that. I have most of the wiring done, and the header cables made up now.

Here I have removed the Pi. I needed to install the header to the Run pin on the Pi. I had wanted to show the mounting bracket a bit as well. So that made it convenient. The Pi is fully removable by unplugging cables and taking out the 4 screws. In the picture you can see the HDMI extender there below the plate as well as the hole in the plate that lets the heat sink on the bottom of the Pi to come through it. The 4 small holes in the plate are where the Pi screws in. There you can see some although maybe not all of the various headers. The long on on the left being the Tapuino port cable. I really wanted to leave enough to get the case open safely. The headers are not keyed(blocked holes), so I want to be able to easily double that I have connected them all up correctly without fighting the cables. You can see the little speakers mounted up where the old physical drive was. The speakers were salvaged from some old unknown laptop years ago I believe. They were stereo speakers, but as my Amp is Audio, and it was happier driving them in series than even a single one (too much power was going to burn up the little tiny amp). So they are wired up in series to lower the overall output, but driving both speakers at once. The little mono audio board is there as well. The little black thing on between the speakers there with ROHS on it is an ground isolation device, because the Pi and the audio amp were on the same power supply I was getting some interference.

Here I have reinstalled the Pi after putting on the little blue header pins for the Run connector. You can see the 12pin connector that will goto the Pi1541 section there. You can see the temporary PS/2 type connector that goes to the LCD laying below the case, the proper connector is already on it, so that it will just plug strait into the circuit board when it is ready. The three sets of wire that will goto the Tapuino section are there as well, the flat ribbon from the SD card slot, then one for the buttons and one for the LCD although the ends of them are obscured.

Here is the Pi header. I didn’t have a header that was large enough to connect it all up in one piece. The remaining pins are not being used. Some go off to the front panel, the smaller wires blue and white and one red one on the second 5Volt pin. The others are going to a 12pin 6×2 header that will then plug into the Pi1541 board that I haven’t created yet.

I have run the audio from the Pi for a good burn in while running in Linux playing some Youtube videos. If I turn the audio up to where it is nearly distorting it does start to get very warm. So I probably will have to watch that I don’t overdrive it and burn it out, but if I keep the volume reasonable it should be just fine.

Here is a shot of the latest board layout. I just did some work on it last night to extend it up for the third mounting hole there. There are some other minor adjustments compared to the paper printed mockup shown above. The Tapuino and the Pi1541 board are completely independent but just on the same board. You can see the DRV LED header there in the upper right. That header is to goto the original Green drive LED on the case front. It will be an always on light when the main power switch is on.

With the free version of Eagle it limits your building area, so that is at the extreme top edge of usable board area in the free version. If I could have put it at the extreme top I would have though. It is also right at the far right edge as well. You can extend the board itself, and you can put Text on the extended area, as well as that through hole mark for the screw. There is a little room to go further left, but I think the bottom is about as far as it can go down. It is a little trick there with Eagle to find your edges.

If you look at the Pi1541 section, you will see some additions based on Steve’s Wiring Diagram for the Option B hardware. I while haven’t seen any boards using those additional signals he said that it would work with the current firmware, and that it is for some later additions.

I guess I will need to work out the Pi Reset/Restart button location and wiring and testing. I then also am thinking of painting the plastic case as it is a bit oddly discolored. and has some writing scratched into the one side. I figured on filling in the scratched on letters, and then painting it. I want to save that for a bit later though, so there is less risk of damaging the paint while building it still. Also if you look at the pictures you may notice things like the external Audio and Video jacks are not yet connected up. That is due to the interest in painting the case before installing them permanently.

I also have not yet worked out the issue in that the MeanWell supply I picked up needs a minimum load on the 12Volt line. I did try with a load resistor, and that worked, but it is wasteful, and generates that much heat 2.5Watts? I don’t want to introduce the heat inside the case. I would then need a fan, but I was thinking if I would want a fan, why not just get a fan that would use the current itself. I did have a small 12Volt fan that uses 200mA of current, but it was way to loud. The way I have been using it so far though is to always have the LCD connected up. That puts sufficient load on it, but my intention is for the LCD to be optional and not always connected.

I will post an update once I get the board made up. I may post another on testing though if anything interesting comes up.

Commodore 128 Power Supply Recap

I also have a Commodore 128 and original power supply. The supply was in working order. As console5.com had a capacitor kit for it, I figured I would take care of replacing the Capacitors in it. The main trick is that my supply’s model number doesn’t match the contents.

The model on this drive seems to indicate the internal supply should be
310416-05 but the internal is actually a Mitsumi 252449-01. I checked the supply before so I knew which kit I needed.

The supply came with 4 plugs in the screw holes in the bottom. They aren’t always the easiest to get out. One was already missing and the next two came out easily. The final one I ended up drilling a small hole in it to pull it out. I wasn’t worried about putting them back in.

The supply with the original Capacitors.

This a rather simple job. There are only two capacitors in this model of supply. The replacement ones are a good bit shorter, and have a very slightly smaller diameter. They are good quality and 105 Degree rated, as well as low ESR types for proper operation in this switching power supply.

Here you can see all of the flux still over the bottom of the board from the factory.

Here is the board after I switched the Capacitors and cleaned the flux from it.

Here is the board after installing the capacitors. I also touched up a few other connections. I cleaned the old flux from the board as well, it looks much better cleaned up.

Here is the completed supply reinstalled in the case with the old capacitors beside it. I tested them and they do appear to likely be fine, but I don’t have way to test them for power leakage that happens with capacitors as they age. I trust the supply better with the new capacitors in it and expect the supply will be more reliable long term.

Assembly of a Final Cartridge III+ for the Commodore 64

I ordered in a Final Cartridge III + Kit from bruktmoped on Ebay. Considering the distance coming from Norway to the US it arrived more quickly than I expected. The parts in the kit were of good quality. The board was very nice, the resistors and diodes had “real” leads like they used to 20 years ago, not the ultra thin ones that are typical of today’s cheap resistors that I get in from the east. Yes, I buy the cheap stuff for my hobby work. I don’t know if they were new old stock like some I have purchased, or if you buy them from an electronics supplier that they are still like that. Either way, I couldn’t have been more pleased with the quality of the parts.

The Final Cartridge III+ is a reproduction of the old Final Cartridge III. The chip came already programmed. You can apparently make your own up with additional programs, but mine here is just setup as bruktmoped shipped out the Eprom. I laid over the electrolytic capacitors and raised the LED off the board, as I was installing this into a 3d printed cartridge case that I again picked up from ibuy24 on Ebay. I have picked up a number of 3d printed cartridge cases from ibuy24 now.

The only thing that was lacking was a jumper (and instructions) on what to do with JP1 there. I didn’t know what that was for, and no instructions came with the kit. I did initially try it without the jumper at all and it did not operate at all like that I did some searches on the FCIII+ and found some pictures and a bit of info on that. That jumper seems to set the board up for the type of Eprom that is on the board. For the size of Eprom the board came with, it needs to be in the left position. I did install a jumper header though rather than soldering in a permanent jumper. To get the case to fit I had to use an extra short jump, which I did happen to have in my surplus jumper bin.

Here is the top cover which I drilled for the Freeze and Reset buttons.

Here on the front I drilled for the LED.

Here on the back I hollowed out on the back side so the LED could get closer to the surface. I also had to take a little out of that support platform around the screw standoff .

So I drilled out for the Reset and Freeze buttons on the top as well as the LED with my drill press. The drill press gives more control than a hand drill, but you could do it with one. I would probably have used my Dremel instead of a hand drill though if I didn’t have the drill press. My drill press isn’t anything fancy, it is just the cheap model from Harbor Freight which I picked up for around $50 with one of their coupons. I did have to take a little out of that support area for some clearance issues for the short jumper as well. The case came with a nice brass thread for the screw as well, which I think was a nice touch. Another nice touch as you can see the case has an insert plate for the label area. I am going to make a custom label for on it before securing it permanently to the case.

Here is the cartridge installed into the Commodore 64 and powered up.

Here is a quick view of the menu system on it. You can navigate with the function keys and select the option with the Commodre “C=” Key. You can alternately navigate the menus with a Joystick, or I guess a mouse if you have a compatible one.

I really enjoyed putting this kit together. The board and components were of good quality, and it and was a lot of fun for someone like me that is. I would far rather put stuff together to use than buy it prebuilt. It isn’t like I did a lot, although the case took a bit of time to get the buttons just right and such. While the bare board looks very nice, I am happier with a cartridge in a case. The case makes inserting the cartridge so much easier because it aligns it to the slot, and aids removal by providing a good grip as well as protecting the circuitry from static shock and such. The case has a good solid feel to it as well.

I worked up a little label for it. It looks a bit better with it.

Commodore 64 Repair and Restore 250407

I picked up an old Commodore 64 last December. When it arrived it looked well maybe not great, but mostly clean.

You can see it still has part of a keyboard cover unit attached. That was quite difficult to remove actually without causing damage..

Internally it looked fairly clean as well. I took the computer out of the case and cleaned the case mostly with soap and water as well as an old toothbrush. I did use some Baking Soda and a bit of water to make a paste like cleaner to scrub some stubborn spots. The case ended up looking pretty good, it is browned a bit but overall not too horrible.

Here I have cleaned the case and keyboard.

Unfortunately the above images are what I was getting out of the computer when I first connected it up. It was flipping through a lot of garbage, I couldn’t even make it out. The camera picked up these images though showing me that something was working. Based on these images I expected a likely issue with the PLA to start. I ordered in a new modern PLAnkton chip to replace it.

Here is the board with the new PLAnkton PLA replacement, and a few caps replaced.

Here she is working after putting in the new PLAnkton.

The computer was working again after replacing the failed original PLA with a new PLAnkton chip. I had to desolder the original chip and solder in a new IC Socket. Then the computer powered up normally except an issue with the Keyboard. It acted like there was a stuck key, after disconnecting the keyboard it still acted like a stuck key. I pulled the left CIA chip there in the upper left corner. It is the CIA that controls the keyboard input. With it out the key wasn’t showing pressed. It was replaced at some point in the life of the computer so it was in a socket. So that seemed to mean the CIA chip was bad. I ordered a replacement chip. As the CIA was super tight in that socket I decided to replace it before putting in the new chip. I actually happened to have a new old stock socket in my stash of the proper size. I installed it and figured, I would test the CIA and see if I could do anything with it. The CIA fit better into this new socket, and it worked perfectly as well. So now I had a fully working Commodore 64.

I did do additional changes, such as replacing all of the electrolytic capacitors. Removing the metal shield around the VIC chip, and installing heatsinks on many of the chips. I also put heatsinks on the Cassette transistor and 12 Volt regulator. I replaced the heatsink compound on the 5Volt regulator. I purchased a full capacitor replacement kit from console5.com.

I also purchased the heatinks, new Din plugs for the Power Supply port, Serial Port, and Monitor ports from Console5.com. I used a new plug for the power port make myself a new safe power supply for the C64 (See my other post on that). I used one of the 6Pin plugs to make a Serial test plug for the Diagnostic Harness (see my other post on the Diagnostic Harness) as well as another for a Pi1541. I picked up the Horseshoe Din for the Monitor/Display Port and made a new Composite Video cable with the audio going to two connectors so I would have copied “mono” audio on my TV. I will be making a S-video cable out of another connector at some point provided I come across a display with S-video on it.

It seems a bit across the board as to “replace the Electrolytic Capacitors” or others will say “Don’t”. I will say if you aren’t using good quality capacitors, don’t waste your time, the old ones may be better or last longer if the new ones are junk. If they are leaking everyone says replace the leaking ones. I say if some are leaking, then others likely could at any time. So far as my experience went on the Commodore 64, I did find that at least some of the old capacitors were giving unexpected values. The old 10uF capacitors varied from 10.8uF to as high as 15uF with 6-8.4% v loss and 3.1 to 25 Ohms ESR. The new 10uF varied from 10.5uF to 10.71uF all at basically 1.2% v loss and 2.9 to 3.2Ohms ESR. I feel at the least that 25 Ohm ESR one was likely to become a problem, I am not so sure about several others. I have to say as the Capacitor kits at Console5.com are $5 to $8 (depending on the board revision) for good brand name capacitors it was certainly worth it for me. They carry them for all of the Commodore 64 Revisions, as well as the Commodore 128, the Commodore 128 Power Supplies (well at least two variants) and the 1541 drives. They also have the Commodore 64 Saver kit.

The keyboard was quite clean overall. I believe the cover was on it most of the time it was out of the box considering it was nearly pristine and only a couple of the springs had any rust on them. I took all of the key caps off with a key cap puller. I then hand washed all of the keys with soap and water. I brushed off the keyboard base and cleaned it with some
91% Isopropyl Alcohol as well, but I didn’t have to take the keyboard apart beyond that.

Black Screen failure..

Shortly after replacing the last of the capacitors it decided to act up and black screen on me. I ran the dead test cartridge and it told me the one ram chip was bad. First I retested my new power supply that it hadn’t went into an over voltage state. It was perfectly fine. I ordered in a replacement ram chip. When I went to desolder the chip, I found the one leg had been clipped off (the VCC pin) at the top and the soldered back on, as well as one of the other ram chips. The only chips that ever seemed to have been changed out was the left CIA and the VIC. I guess it was having an issue and someone was trying to troubleshoot it, I am not sure if that was back when the PLA originally failed or some other point. Anyways I finished removing that ram chip, being careful not to have that leg fall off. I then installed a new socket and put in the replacement Ram chip. I still had the black screen. I pulled the left CIA just in case, as it was socketed and not required to get a display. I then tried pulling the VIC and used contact cleaner on it and on the socket for it. Finally I decided it was time to desolder the SID, I really didn’t want to do that because there was a risk in ruining the chip in the process. I didn’t have anything else to try at that time, short of desoldering more ram chips, which I didn’t have replacements for. I did have sockets for the SID chip as well. When I went to desolder the SID I found the leads weren’t clipped at the factory, and some were folded over. The one lead was touching an adjacent trace. I believe that was causing the fault. I had gotten that far and decided to desolder the SID anyways. I removed it and tested the system, and it came up normally (well normal for no SID or left CIA. I soldered in a new socket and retested, the system still operated fine. After that I went back to the SID and finished straitening the legs out and installed it into the new socket. I was so glad to find it still worked after that as well. I then reinstalled the CIA and swapped back in the original Ram chip, it also worked. After that I ran the diagnostic cartridge with the full test harness through quite a few cycles for good measure. I finished installing the Heatsink on the VIC as I had removed the metal case around it. The VIC is quite hard to get an IC Puller in at with that case nearly touching the bottom edge of it. I actually removed that case before pulling the VIC. Later C64s didn’t have that case over the VIC so I figure I don’t really need it there.

Completed repair, capacitors and heatsinks.

Beyond that I cleaned the mainboard with an ESD Safe black brush to get the loose dirt off and some 91% Isopropyl Alcohol to get residues off of it as well as a bit of flux from the various new sockets as well as around the cartridge and power switch and the various ports.

It was fun getting this old machine going. I didn’t have one back in the day, although I had a used TI 99/4a at some point in the early 90s. So I guess that was my first computer, I didn’t really get to do much with it back then as I had nearly no software for it. I always liked the Apple IIs and such we used in school, and remember writing basic programs for them as well as later on doing that with our 486DX2 66mhz with Dos 6.2 and Windows 3.11 for Workgroups. I worked on the old 80s era IBMs including a few 5050s I had in the late 90s. I guess now I wish I had kept them. I even had a working luggable IBM 5155.. Well I never thought they would be worth anything more than scrap. Still I don’t know that I would have done anything with them. I worked on the IBM PS/2s in school, but never had one, even then I thought they were “weird”. The Commodore 64 is a fun system, and reasonably easy to work on.

It is a nice change working on these old computers compared to working on “modern” computers like I do during the day. It is nice getting into component level troubleshooting and repair.

After getting a second C64, I have found this unit has a only partially working SID. The third voice is not working on it. I only noticed it due to the other C64’s SID playing back more sound on the Diagnostics cartridge tests. If I used it more, I may have noticed some odd audio, but not being familiar with these computers back in the day, I don’t know how long that would have taken. I am figuring on getting a replacement, but I think I want to go with an ArmSID. Maybe next month I will be up to ordering one and see how it goes. My 128 has the same SID model in it, I could check it out to swap it, but I do currently have a fully working C64. I don’t have a good feeling for the chances of picking up a fully working original SID certainly a price that is much better than an ArmSID or other modern replacement. I like to keep them original as much as I can, but these chips are old, and not being made anymore, I don’t expect them to keep running another 3 decades.

Commodore 64 Test Harness

When trying to get my Commodore 64 up and running, I ended up buying a combination Dead Test and Diagnostic Cartridge for it. The Diagnostic side of the cartridge uses a special test harness to test out the operation of the various ports on the C64. I figured I might as well make a full test harness for it. It was a fun project to me, but I am sure there are others out there that would rather buy a completed harness. There are several people selling them. I found a nice modern made one on Ebay for a fairly reasonable price. There are others doing it as well as there is someone on Lemon64 selling them.

I am not including schematics and such, but I have posted the link to the website for the schematics I based my harness off of at the bottom of this post. I will say the Joystick Test portion of the circuit is hard to follow on the schematics with how they are setup. It really looks far more complex than it is. I color coded and traced all of the lines back across the two sheets (one of the big draw backs is the two sheets issue itself), and then I was able to sort out what was going where. The image of the User Port harness does have the layout I sorted from the originals, simply because I had made it and had it available when I took the picture. I did make some changes additions such as, 4 indicator LEDs that indicate power at 4 of the ports. I didn’t put an indicator on the User port although you could. The Serial port has no power pin so it can’t have an indicator. I also moved the joystick test circuitry to the Cassette Port which you will see later on in the post.

The easiest was the Serial Loopback, so I started there. It is just a couple wires on a 6 pin Din plug. I did put a loop of heavy wire on the casing so it could be used to aid in pulling the connector if needed, or to hang it up or such.

The next was a loopback for the Keyboard. The instructions I found for it included that you could make it out of an old IDE Ribbon Cable the earlier 40 wire model. Unfortunately I didn’t have any of those and only had an 80 wire type cable that they said can not be used. They were right the 80 wire type won’t work without some changes to it. The reason it won’t work is there is a center set of contacts that creates links between various pins. I took the connector apart and removed the center strip that was doing that. I then took a bit of the wire (from an 80pin IDE cable) and did the loopbacks directly on the connector.

It worked for the testing like that, but I decided to go back and add a LED and resistor to the loopback, as was mentioned on the Tynemouth Software site. This is good in my opinion, because if you have the keyboard loopback attached, you almost certainly have disconnected the power LED and have no indication there is power in that board. I put the connector back together and attached a pull loop on it to make it easier to remove. I also put a pin into the key pin so it couldn’t be installed incorrectly.

Power LED. There are only 1 wires attached to the LED. The extra wires are only there for extra support but do not go to the LED.

Then I did the User Port Loopback. It is just a series of wires on the pins once the components of the Joystick Test are removed from it. On the original Test Harness from Commodore it was put in what looks to be a modified “cartridge” case and it did have wires going from the Cassette Port and some 4066 ICs to test the Joystick Ports. In my situation I decided to put the 4066s and the Joystick Cables into the Cassette Port test unit instead. It was closer to the joystick ports, and they needed a data signal from there anyways. I also had a nice metal case available to build the board and install it all into. Initially I had installed a wire as a pull assist to remove the User Port Loopback. The connectors I picked up for the User port (and Cassette Port) are very very tight, so that wire did not work very well. I purchased a DSub Case for a 37pin DSub port (sizing chosen by a reference I found saying they fit into them, The Cassette port unit can alternately be mounted in a DB15 enclosure.) and installed the User Port Loopback into that. The DB37 enclosure gives better leverage to let me pull it strait back, it also does prevent it going in as deep, but it still makes good contact.

Original configuration with the pull wire.

Here I have removed the wire and put it in the DSUB enclosure. The line indicates Pin1.

The bottom of the User Port Loopback is Labeled with Red to help point out it is upside down.

The last part of the harness was the Cassette Port and Joystick Ports. The Cassette Port is fairly simple itself, but it actually sends a signal over the 4066s for the Joysticks. Looking at the schematics, I found it rather intimidating trying to figure them out. Being that it was two pages and the “joining” connections were flipped from one page to the other that didn’t help one bit. I am very very glad they are available, but that seems like a an odd choice to make. The 4066s have 4 sets of “switches” in them basically. When a signal is sent to that switch via the Cassette port the switches close and create a connection between the two wires going into it. There are 5 of those switches used by the test harness. The Up, Down, Left, Right and Fire buttons of the two joysticks are wired to each other when those are active. So Joystick 1 fire is wired to Joystick 2 fire and so on. The Paddle pins are each wired through a 120k resistor to 5Volts to give a known voltage on them apparently. I also added a Power LED to the Cassette Module, that shows the power is there on the Cassette port, as I am using the power from it for the 4066s. I decided to add Power LEDs for Each Joystick port as well with Yellow LEDs. They show that each Joystick ports are getting good contact on their 5Volts and Ground pins. The original harness doesn’t test the Ground pin on the joysticks, and if it wasn’t there they wouldn’t work.

Here is an internal view. The “blue” things are 1.5k old stock precision resistors.

Here is the completed unit. Don’t mind the Mislabeling. Note the Power L1 and L2 LEDs. L1 and L2 show that the 5Volts is working on Joystick Port 1 and Joystick Port 2. I thought of putting a another LED at the Input hole again and making it so that it lights when the Joystick ports get their signal from the Cassette port during testing. I doubt I will get around to that though, I am a bit curious what it may look like though.

I also put the Test Cartridge into a 3D Printed case I purchased from ibuy24 on Ebay. It has a 3d printed label plate and the hole in it that lets you toggle the mini switch to change the cartridge mode.

Here is a full test of the harness shortly after completing it. I didn’t have the case for the User Port unit yet.

Overall this required proper card edge connectors, 2 4066 ICs, some decoupling capacitors, a number of resistors and 4 LEDs. It also used a 6 Pin Din for the Serial and a strait through 9 pin Serial Cable that I cut in half to make the joystick cables. Beyond that I used a protoboard for the 4066 joystick circuitry and a salvaged metal enclosure, then the 37Pin DSUB cover as added later.

I based my test harness on the the schematics at Peter Schepers’ webpage http://ist.uwaterloo.ca/~schepers/diagnostic.html

I also took some ideas from the post over at Tynemouth Software. Such as the Keyboard Power LED. http://blog.tynemouthsoftware.co.uk/2014/10/commodore-64-diagnostics-test-harness.html

For supplies I purchased the 6 pin DIN plug at http://www.console5.com where I picked up all my DIN plugs heatsinks and Electrolytic Capacitors for my Commodores. I purchased the card edge ports from China via Ebay, although they are quite tight, I think there may be an alternate one that is made for “thicker” boards? I picked up the 4066s via Ebay as well although they can be sourced for many electronics suppliers. I purchased the DB37 DSUB Cover at http://www.unicornelectronics.com they should have 4066s and such as well I expect. I don’t know if they have card edge connector plugs or not in the proper sizes. I picked up the DB37 cover there when I ordered new ram for my Commodore 64 as well as some other 74 logic chips and various other bits.

Commodore 64 New Powersupply

I purchased an old Commodore 64 Breadbin style computer in December, and it didn’t come with a power supply. That is not exactly a bad thing as the old power supplies are responsible for killing a lot of C64s over the years. When those supplies fail, they often start sending to much voltage into the 5Volt line burning out many of the chips on the board. To see if it made sense to try to bring this old C64 back to life, I hooked it up with a 9Volt Ac Transformer that I had in my spare parts, and my regulated variable power supply. It sort of worked, it did need repaired, but that will be a post for another time.

I did manage to repair the Commodore 64, so it was time to make a proper and safe power supply for it. I took my 9Volt 1Amp Transformer (well 9.5Volt ) and picked up a new Mean Well RS-15-5 5Volt DC 3Amp power supply. I also picked up an enclosure, 4 conductor wire, and finally a proper DIN power connector from console5.com. The other items I had around, the IEC power jack, power cord, fuse holders etc.

I cut an opening in the back of the enclosure for the IEC power port. I also drilled the front for the outgoing power cord and installed a rubber grommet to protect the cable. I used my small drill press to start the holes then for the IEC being obviously not a circle, I trimmed out the rest with my Dremel and a hobby knife. The material the case is made of is reasonably soft and not too bad to work with. Just don’t try to drill or cut to fast, let the tool do the job.

The bottom of the case had some standoffs for mounting. I cut a piece of raw circuit board material to fit into the bottom. I then drilled holes to put screws into it to hold it to the standoffs. This let me have a solid base to attach the heavy transformer and power supply to without putting holes through outside of the case itself. I then mounted the Mean Well supply and the Transformer to the board and installed it into the case.

I really should have the mesh/screen grounded, that is not shown here though.

In the top I mounted a fuse holder, and later a power switch beside it. All of the exposed connections were sealed with Liquid Electrical Tape on the IEC port and the little bit at the base of the Fuse holder that wasn’t covered by the heat shrink for added protection if someone ever opens it up. I also cut out a fairly large opening for ventilation. I figured if I was going to open it up, I might as well make it worthwhile. I had a piece of screen from an old computer case and cut it down to fit and shaped it to bulge into the opening. I don’t know that much heat will be generated, but it certainly should have enough passive cooling going on with that much ventilation. The grill is pretty small, so the odds of anything falling in should be minimal. Also with all of contacts well insulated it shouldn’t be a problem. Something could get in the screw terminals on the Mean Well maybe. To put in the grill, I started by drilling in the corners for the opening with a Forstner Bit with my drill press to make the rounded corners of the hole. I then cut the rest out with the Dremel to get it close and then a utility knife and such to try to keep it clean and strait. It is slightly out of square, but still looks pretty good overall. Of course I did test the supply before attaching it to the Commodore 64.

Here is the completed supply after I added the power switch.

Here is the supply after I finished assembly on the Commodore 64.

It was a relatively simple project. It also was not very expensive overall. The Mean Well was pretty cheap I believe $10.00 with shipping. The next was the case which was around the same price. The 4 conductor wire I used is not very flexible, but even with what I purchased it ended up being more that $20, although I do have a good bit of wire left over. The wire is a stranded alarm system wire, it is only a couple strands and not very flexible. I would also probably crimp badly if it is wrapped up tightly. I figured if the wire becomes an issue, I will end up replacing it with a more appropriate wire. Overall I may have not saved all that much money making it myself compared to the cost of some of the units available theses days, but it certainly means more to me knowing I made it myself. There is not a Commodore 64 Saver circuit in it, but the Mean Well supply does have protection built into it. I did purchase a Commodore 64 Saver kit that I thought of possibly adding to the unit, but I did not have enough space in the case to get it in there. I did later build up the Saver kit, but the trigger voltage drifts with temperature changes. I don’t feel confident the Saver circuit would be all that reliable.

I’ve built a second Commodore 64 Power Supply and done some minor changes/additions. It is a near direct copy of the first model, with a few corrections to make some items easier or better, fuse placement etc.

Commodore 64 New Powersupply 2